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While cleaning up my 98, I found the black ground wire needed to be replaced as it looked as if it had gotten pretty hot at one time. While I was in there, I also replaced the stiff red hi tension lead with a length of supple 7mm solid core spark plug wire. The red and black leads for the clips were OK so I left them alone.
One contact was loose to so it took a bit of fiddling to make it right.
A good spray with Caig DeOxit will remove any tarnish or buildup on the contacts. This is the same stuff I use on vintage audio equipment to clear up scratchy volume/tone/balance control pots. It’s good stuff and worth the price.
I did see one capacitor in it which should be replaced for peace if mind as caps deteriorate with age and can start leaking and stray from their original value. Any resistors or other parts in the 98 should be OK.
When setting the needle for condenser capacity, I’ve found zeroing it as recommended for scales 2-3-4-6 gives a bad reading when testing a cap with a known uF rating. I’ve found by setting the needle at the end of the scale, instead of the line indicated, gives a more accurate reading of capacitance. There is an adjustable pot (resistor) inside and I think it is for calibrating the capacitance scale. Without a wiring diagram, I’m a bit hesitant to start twisting it.
Here’s a handy tool I picked up recently and it’s used for identifying electrical components and their values. This is what I used to compare uF readings between the 98 and some other cap testers I have. Here it’s reading 299.8 nF which converts to 0.2998 uF, or close enough to .30 microfarads for these OMC caps.
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