OMC Shift Rod O-Ring Removal

[aquasonic]

I’m trying to make a shift rod o-ring removal tool. Took a 1/4-20 ready rod and tightened two 1/4-20 steel hex nuts together with counter force. Chocked the end of the ready rod in my drill, and used a flat file to turn the hex nuts to size.

After taking a close look at the opening to the o-ring and bushing from underneath, it looks as though the “shoulder” of my makeshift tool is landing on the aluminum casting and will need to be milled a bit more. Currently the shoulder section is approximately 3/8″ in diameter. Now I’m thinking that it may need to be more like 5/16″ diameter, which means the step at the shoulder will only be approximately 1/32″.

Is the hole in the casting only very slightly larger than 1/4″ diameter so it can accommodate the tool, yet still catch on the brass bushing for removal?

 

• This topic was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by aquasonic.
• This topic was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by aquasonic.

[bobw]

The casting is pretty narrow in some motors, so a 3/8″ wide tool might be too big.  Before I bought the OMC bushing tool, I used a 5/16″ punch to knock the bushing out and that worked pretty well.  If you do a lot of motors, buy the tool – they are not that expensive.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by bobw.

[crosbyman]

why not just tap the bushing and pull it out  with a threaded rod   and a block of wood/nut  a method…

works pretty good  and you can reuse the bushing

see video using a metal bar    but a 1×4   piece of 3/4 inch thick  board    with a hole in it works fine

few threads tapped into the bushing should do

OMC 9.9/15hp shift rod seal replacement – YouTube

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• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by crosbyman.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by crosbyman.
• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by crosbyman.

[fleetwin]

I have a few of the tools, if you would like to borrow one and reproduce it let me know.   Don

[aquasonic]

Thanks to everyone that replied. I’ll continue with my attempt at making this tool, and turn it down so it’s just small enough to fit into the casting opening. If this doesn’t work, I’ll try “Plan B”.

I don’t have a nice long handle punch like the one bobw posted, so most likely will try the tap method recommended by crosbyman. This is a proven method. Will a 5/16″ standard thread tap work on the brass bushing?

I may want to borrow one of your tools fleetwin. Thank you. My preference, at this point, is to drive the bushing out, but that is subject to change. I’ll see how it goes.

Thanks again!

[frankr]

I used to make the bushing removal tool but discontinued it because of the wide variations in the size of the hole through the case.  Easiest way to get it out in my opinion is run a 5/16 NC tap into the bushing just a few turns (the end of the bushing that you can see).  Then screw a junk bolt into the threads you just cut.  Flip the gearcase over and use a long punch or rod to knock the bushing/bolt out.  You can reuse the bushing if you didn’t tap it too deep.  Hint: If you can’t reach the tap, use a 1/4″ drive socket extension upside down to extend the tap length.

[boscovius]

My 2 cents.

When I removed the bushings in the lower units for a 1957 Evinrude big twin 35 I took a threaded rod which was as close as possible to the hole in the bushing, (in my case I think it was 1/4 inch), then I put a couple of nuts on one end, leaving about a half inch or so sticking out.  I tightened the nuts against each other and then placed the rod in my vise with the nuts in the jaws.  Once tightened down I heated the half inch of exposed rod with a propane torch until it was glowing and then I began to deform it by hitting it squarely on the top with a hammer.  I performed this heat and hammer operation a couple of times until I had it just a bit too big, then I used my bench grinder to take away the threads at the part that would be engaging the bushing.

I had a nice flat piece of 1/4 inch steel with a 1/4 inch hole drilled in it and used that for the backing plate.  Worked like a charm.  Did two bushings with it, I’m sure it would do more.

 

[aquasonic]

frankr wrote:

I used to make the bushing removal tool but discontinued it because of the wide variations in the size of the hole through the case.  Easiest way to get it out in my opinion is run a 5/16 NC tap into the bushing just a few turns (the end of the bushing that you can see).  Then screw a junk bolt into the threads you just cut.  Flip the gearcase over and use a long punch or rod to knock the bushing/bolt out.  You can reuse the bushing if you didn’t tap it too deep.  Hint: If you can’t reach the tap, use a 1/4″ drive socket extension upside down to extend the tap length.

Frank, I do recall that you had  good reason to stop making the bushing removal tool. The motor I’m working on may be one of the ones where the tool doesn’t work. The hole through the case is barely over 1/4″ in diameter the best that I can tell.

I realized that my attempt at making a tool was not going to work because there would be nothing left of the hex nuts that I was milling down. I may try again with a piece of 5/16″ steel rod, that could be turned down to 1/4″, to fit into the bushing, then stepped up to 5/16″ or so to catch the bushing. At least it will be made from one piece of steel.

The next attempt will involve using the 5/16″ tap, and a 5/16″ bolt. Much appreciated.

[Buccaneer]

This is the one that I made a few years ago.
I may have tweaked it a little bit over time.
It always worked, but on some motors the rod
got stuck slightly after driving out the bushing.

Prepare to be boarded!

[labrador-guy]

Buccaneer wrote:

This is the one that I made a few years ago.
I may have tweaked it a little bit over time.
It always worked, but on some motors the rod
got stuck slightly after driving out the bushing.

Buc’s tool also works good for reassembly.  Slip the bushing on the end and put some grease on the  O ring.  Slip the whole thing into the gear case and the bushing will start straight every time!

dale

Woman will never be equal to men until they can walk down the street with a bald head and a beer gut, and still think they are sexy!

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