Row Boat Motor Magnetos

[jimparrott]

Buccaneer,

Attached are some links to buzz coil options and pics of my set up which is a JB coil.

http://www.pfs-ware.com/rbmj/pdf/RBMJ_V2_I1.pdf

http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/m … /3079.html

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[Buccaneer]

Jim, thanks a million! You’ve given me a lot of "food for thought".
That Lockwood type of timer you show intrigues me. Your drawing
gives me a general idea on how to make the timer handle
swivel. I would have to figure out some "stops" to limit travel,
and some way to tension the advance so it didn’t wander.
Again, Thanks for all the help!

quote JimParrott:

Buccaneer,

Attached are some links to buzz coil options and pics of my set up which is a JB coil.

http://www.pfs-ware.com/rbmj/pdf/RBMJ_V2_I1.pdf

http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/m … /3079.html

Prepare to be boarded!

[jimparrott]

Buccaneer,

You could split the mount on the top and add a screw to tighten the gap, or just add a nylon tipped set screw. I do have the blueprint drawings for the Lockwood timers if you need them. The Lockwood timer has stop pins that stick out the bottom and hit the upper timer mount. Below is a picture of a homemade timer for a two cylinder Lockwood. Also a bottom view of the Ferro timer.

FYI, I checked my Ferro RBM, it has a Bosch Magneto but doesn’t fire in both directions. I think it could probably be set up to fire in the opposite direction with changing the internal timing. These motors don’t really need reverse.
Jim

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[Buccaneer]

Jim, thanks again. I’ve been out in the garage seeing what
I might have to build a timer out of. So far I’ve found
some 3" aluminum round stock, some old 4 x 3" aluminum
angle, etc., I "kind of" have a plan. Once I get more figured
out, I’ll run it by you!

Prepare to be boarded!

[kees]

.
Good to see your progress with this motor, but one thing what I don’t understand is…
Are there in the whole US no good magneto’s to find what could be a nice , good looking one
on this outboard ?
What you really need is a good "look a like" of the original,
I am thinking of an American Bosch what was used on a Caille RBM or Liberty Twin.
( In working order is an other question but that problem can always be solved later. )
That type I should looking for, if I was you.
And sorry to say, but if we were neighbours, I could help.
Have a couple spare magneto’s , German and Swedish brand, used on Swedish RBM’s.
How they look ? Go to Jack Craib’s website and click on all the Swedish brands for an idea.
I will certainly use one of these on my Wisconsin in the future.
yeah, yeah, I have to admit, my Wisconsin RBM is missing the magneto as well.
😥
.

[Buccaneer]

Kees, I’m not doing anything to the motor that can’t be changed
back to original in a few minutes, in case I find a more suitable,
and affordable magneto.

Do any of your RBM magnetos use impulse couplings?

The original Elkhart magneto was said to run the motor in reverse
at well. Not sure what other magnetos had that capability.
I emailed one magneto rebuilder to ask what replacement magneto
might be a good substitute for the Elkhart. I received no reply,
but maybe I’ll try a few more.

Prepare to be boarded!

[jack-williams]

I have a 1950s (1956-58?) vintage Evinrude 7.5 HP Fleetwin. We had a massive rain storm and the boat it was on sank. It could have been under water for two days. I pulled it out, dried it out, cleaned the plugs, cleaned the sediment bowl, flushed the carburetor, blew out everything with air, used a heat gun to dry the magnetos, checked the spark plugs to make sure I was getting spark, and put new gas in the tank. It pulls in through without any problem, but won’t start. It popped once, but that was it. Should I replace the magnetos? What else could be the problem?

Thanks

Jack Williams

[seakaye12]

Hi Jack and welcome to the site!

You should really start a new thread and put your specific issue in the title; works best in terms of attracting eyes that might be able to help…..and is generally considered good forum Etiquette.

Your problem can only be one of three things; spark, gas or compression. I suspect spark and I would ask how you are testing it. Generally you would want to verify that your spark can jump a nice healthy gap….maybe twice or even three times the 0.35" gap at the plug. This is best done with a spark tester like this one:

If you have good spark with this test I would then remove the plugs and squirt a bit of pre-mix directly into the cylinders and try starting again. You can also inject pre-mix in the throat of the carb. You might have to remove the silencer part up front to do that.

I’ve had sunken engines too….and I generally inject liberal amounts of pre-mix down the throat of the carburetor with the engine lying on the ground so it runs in past the reed valves and into the crankcase. Turn the engine over for a bit to get the fluids to penetrate and displace any water that is in there.
You can do the same through the spark plug holes…..again with the engine lying on the ground but with the cylinder head facing upward.

Why not start a new thread and see who else replies to you. Many of us have been there and sure don’t want a fine engine to be damaged by rust. Hopefully there wasn’t a lot of sand or mud in it’s resting place.

Good Luck!

[Buccaneer]

Yikes, my thread has been Hi-Jacked, lol.

Prepare to be boarded!

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

And I am not sure how to move, just his post…… LOL

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

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