substitute for OMC sealer 1000

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

When I was working on my Clark Troller, I used the 847 to seal the cavitation plate/ ignition cover. Literally dropped it in the water within 2 minutes of tightening the last screw…zero water intrusion…

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[fleetwin]

RICHARD A. WHITE wrote:

When I was working on my Clark Troller, I used the 847 to seal the cavitation plate/ ignition cover. Literally dropped it in the water within 2 minutes of tightening the last screw…zero water intrusion…

Like Richard says, the 847 is great/strong sealer for sure, just a royal PIA to work with and clean up. These clam shell gearcases are extremely difficult to seal properly, after all, even the most minor water leak is unacceptable. It has always baffled me why the spaghetti seal does not line up with the oring on the prop shaft seal/bushing carrier, this seems to be an engineered water leak. I always add an extra dab of 847 in this area to make up for an engineering flaw. The other engineering flaw that confounds me is that there is no oring on the screw heads (that retain the skeg to the upper g/c) to seal that potential water leak. The holes/threads for the retaining screws are inside the spaghetti seal, so any imperfection is this area will result in a water leak regardless of how well the spaghetti seal/prop shaft orings were installed/sealed.

So, I’m staying old school, will continue to curse at the 847 while applying it, and while trying to remove it….. Sure would be nice if they made the stuff in smaller tubes with a smaller nozzle/outlet though….And again, I would never substitute any sort of silicone sealer for the 847 when assembling powerhead crankcase halves. Use either the OMC gel seal (or its Loctite equivalent), or the 847…And, on the larger powerheads where spaghetti seal is used, use only the 847. Do not use the gel seal in conjunction with the spaghetti seal…

• This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by fleetwin.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by fleetwin.

[rudefan29070]

Fleetwin, I thought the same thing about the case halve screws. So I just put sealer under the heads of them and tried to keep any sealer off the threads. I didn’t want them to be a bear to remove if I ever had to go back in there. I did cut the spaghetti seal a little longer as the manual says and I also ordered the thicker spaghetti seal as recommended by (this old outboard, great video on the procedure btw) then I put some extra sealer on the ends.

[fleetwin]

rudefan29070 wrote:

Fleetwin, I thought the same thing about the case halve screws. So I just put sealer under the heads of them and tried to keep any sealer off the threads. I didn’t want them to be a bear to remove if I ever had to go back in there. I did cut the spaghetti seal a little longer as the manual says and I also ordered the thicker spaghetti seal as recommended by (this old outboard, great video on the procedure btw) then I put some extra sealer on the ends.

Putting sealer under the heads of the screws is surely helpful. But, I don’t recommend using any alternate spaghetti seal. Leaks through the spaghetti seal are almost non existent, unless it has been misinstalled, improperly cemented in place. The leaks do occur where the ends of the spaghetti seal butt up against the prop shaft bushing/bearing/seal carrier. An actual leak through properly installed spaghetti seal would indicate a distorted/bent skeg/housing.

I watch the this old outboard youtube videos also, very amusing. But, his techniques should not be taken as professional advice, he doesn’t even have a gearcase pressure tester…..

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