March 18, 2015 at 7:36 pm #954
When I removed the bowl on my Western Auto Wizard 3.6 carb, a little spring was loose in the bowl. I figure it’s a float spring and I’m not positive how it goes back together correctly. At the moment, the float pin is running thru the spring with one end under the tab for the float valve needle and the other end is on top of the seal for the bowl. Any ideas?
Topics: 97March 18, 2015 at 7:41 pm #12268
I had the same question a couple years ago, but it was on a John Deere 110 Garden tractor with 12 horse Tecumseh. It has been long enough that I forgot the answer, but I found it some where on a JD forum. I just looked on MY Tractor Forum and there is a post that says the hooked end goes under the bowl gasket.
May help, may not.
Topics: 4March 19, 2015 at 12:13 am #12289
I have worked on many of those carbs.in the picture, the spring is on backwards.I don’t have a picture,but the long spring leg rests on the upper right of the float. Think of it as a helper spring to add bouyency to the float.the spring does not sit over or under the gasket. I hope this helps. BillMarch 19, 2015 at 1:49 am #12304
Bill is 100% correct, in your photo it is backwards. The 78-84 Chrysler looper 6/7.5/8hp models I’ve been messing with all use the Walbro LMB carbs with that spring. No matter how careful you are, it is always guaranteed to fling itself across your shop when you pull out the pin! 😮 The manual has a page for best practice when re-installing it – I will try to scan and post it tomorrow night for you.
The manual doesn’t explain what its actual purpose is – frankly 1/2 of the motors I have were missing that spring and I can’t see any difference in how they run now that it is replaced. You’d think it would impact the float height, but I can’t tell any difference in the performance, idle, etc……March 19, 2015 at 2:47 am #12306
Backwards eh? OK, thanks guys! I’ll take it apart again in the daylight and try to figure it out.
So Bill, should the long part be on the outside of the float and be visible from the same camera angle?March 19, 2015 at 4:01 am #12318
More like this?
I couldn’t wait till tomorrow.
Topics: 4March 20, 2015 at 12:24 am #12367
You are very close with that arrangement. The long leg@ the right is correct.the short leg is correct, except it rests against the verticle post below the float pin. The brass float,in some cases ,due to it’s weight needed the helper spring.I also have seen many of them missing that seem to do fine.March 20, 2015 at 2:15 am #12371
Okay, I can’t seem to get a PDF to post so you can see it here, but this link to it on my website will work. This is what the 1979 Chrysler looper 6/7.5 manual says on the assembly of the Walbro LMB 215 – while a different carb model from the earlier one you have Jim, I believe the instructions will help:
Here’s a photo of one of my LMBs assembled. The new replacement springs are included in Walbro kit K1-LMB (about $15.00 on-line) and don’t have the short "L" but are just straight – so you don’t see it hooking around the right-hand pin post in this photo:
I’d still like to know what the miserable spring is supposed to do – other than fly across your shop and get lost whenever you try to pull out the hinge pin…… 😳March 20, 2015 at 6:41 am #12384
Thanks for the link Art!
The motor is a ’62 and all I can make out on the carb is 159. There might be some more numbers or letters under the paint though.
I like this motor! I fired it up today without the spring and was impressed how quiet and smooth it runs! I thought it might be real noisy like an air cooled motor but as soon as the water made it’s way thru the system, it quietened right down. Some fuel is leaking out of the bowl but I think I can solve that problem. Other than that so far, so good! 😀
Topics: 7March 20, 2015 at 11:51 am #12394
That spring keeps "or at least tries to keep" the float valve closed when the motor is tiltedMarch 20, 2015 at 2:15 pm #12399
Is this one of the West Bend sourced motors or a Wiz-badged Scotty? You reference both air & water cooling so I’m guessing a WB? I’ve had no end of trouble with that era Walbro and the drain and Remora-like high speed needle protuberance – they all leak like a seive. They only used the Walbros for a year or two then went back to the Tillotson MD, there must have been a reason….. I don’t think any of the ones I’ve had still had the spring – given the propensity for leakage, it must have been lost by prior owners years before I got ahold of them!
Thanks to EdgarTC for a possible reason for the spring – I hadn’t considered that!
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 26March 20, 2015 at 6:23 pm #12413
And when you get done piddling with that Walbro you can go back and find a Tillotsen carb that just works…lolMarch 21, 2015 at 1:39 am #12423
Ha ha, yeah, I Just got home so I’m going to take another look at it now. And Oz, I do have a NOS in the box MD 11A Tilly sitting here but I’m saving it for a late forties Sportsman! 😀March 21, 2015 at 3:57 am #12439
I played with the spring again and I think I have it right now. The bowl doesn’t have that pesky drain which can leak so the leaking might have been because of a fibre washer I placed between the nozzle and the bowl. It didn’t seem necessary there so I moved it to the outside under the bowl nut. Now the bowl seems to be tighter on its seal. I’m also betting the McCulloch crew built this motor early Monday or late Friday as the carb cover decal isn’t very straight! 😀
Topics: 0June 18, 2015 at 4:14 pm #18372
Hello all, I am a newbie and this is my first post. I recently received a free 1962 Scott Mcculloch hp outboard motor.It hadn’t run in 7 years or so. I cleaned the carb,gas tank, points and all of the other basic tune up items, it runs nicely now except for a bit of a bog at high speed(not sure why). I came across this post because mine also has the Walbro LMG 159 without the drain. I’m wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a float bowl gasket? I now have one on that I made from rubber gasket material but it leaks a bit. Any idea of where to find these?
I’m also interested in possibly replacing the carb with a Tilotson if it’s an easy swap, any info on this would be greatly appreciated as well.
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