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Intranet access here is poor. You have convinced me you understand the procedure for stating. The only thing I can think of is worm main bearings. Check the flywheel for side to side movement. If there is excessive clearance air is drawn into the crankcase and the motor won’t start.
Tubs.After my last failed attempt I reviewed the entire motor with a flash light and “fine tooth comb. I discovered fuel running out from behind the carb. I cleaned up the fuel and tried to restart and more fuel is leaking again. Makes me think about your comment of excessive air getting into the crankcase. If fuel is getting out, then I know air is getting in. I’ll replace the carb gasket tonight with some thicker material to get a better seal and try again. The choke is functioning normally, however; it floods immediately if I choke it. If all else fails, I plan to drive down to the Houston chapter meet in October. I’m in the DFW area. Is the Tejas chapter still active?
There is another possibility that has occurred to me. When you
rebuilt the coil what did you use for a condenser. My only
experience using a capacitor would produce a spark when tested
but the motor wouldn’t run. Turned out the one I used wasn’t fast
enough. (This was determined by another member – I have
little understand of this stuff.) If you in fact used a condenser
you may not have it wired correctly. As you are getting a spark, to
test if it is a condenser issue ground one anywhere on the motor.
Run the wire to the coil connection in the timer and and add it to
see if it will start.
Tubs.
I think it should run on that one if its good.
Today new doesn’t necessarily mean good.
Trying another will at least eliminate it as a problem.
Be sure it is grounded to the motor.
So I’m guessing you didn’t put the condenser in the coil tube?
What coil did you use? Zephyr or military surplus?
Tubs.This was the coil I used from the coil rebuild YouTube video. I’m pretty certain it is correct. I did put them back in the tube with parafin wax exactly as the video showed, so I’m not looking forward to melting the wax. I’m over my head when discussing microfarad variations of condensers and how they impact the starting of an old motor. I do know this, so far nothing I’ve done has made any change in how the motor acts. I’m running out of possibilities, so seeing the current condenser is spec’d for a much larger motor could be a possibility. New condenser is ordered and should be here tomorrow.
Yes that is the coil. Determining microfarad value is a crap shoot.
Watching how the points pit can tell if your high or low over time.
You don’t have to get into the tube to do a test. Just ground the
condenser anywhere on the motor and extend the lead so you
can run the wire to the coil connection in the timer to see if it will
start. You can get the wax out with a heat gun. On low and not
too close. Position the coil so the wax can run out and let the warm
air blow into the tube. Again, not too close as you can damage
the tube. It takes quite a bit of time. About the time you have
3/4 of the wax removed from the tube you should be able to
push the rest out.
Tubs.
You are correct on the .09 -1.25 value for the Super Elto battery ignition but now
that you are using a completely different coil that specification would no longer apply.
Tubs.
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I use a condenser found in Chrysler products.
I request one for a 1968 Plymouth only because I have one.
My tester shows the value is .26 MFD. How close that
is to ideal I have no idea. I have a Speedster that I have
run a bunch over the years. I ran 50+ gallons of fuel
through it last year alone. The last time I looked at the
points I didn’t notice any extensive point ware. Some
Super Elto operating instructions suggest switching the
wires when connecting the battery from time to time..
This would reverse any pitting and maybe the
recommended value was not that close after all.
Tubs.
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