Topic: 1954 elgin single 2hp – recoil needed & carb+ questions

This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 4 months ago by jim-moffatt.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

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December 8, 2017 at 5:27 pm #8819
camaroman
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Hi all u fellow motorheads! I just got the elgin running! Very strong spark – still trying to dial in the carb, she wont idle well without turning the high speed out, and wont run fast without turning it in (about 1/4-1/2 turn each way finds a good spot).. Is the HS screw supposed to be adjusted all the time while accelerating? This was on the hose – not sure if prop back pressure would alleviate this –

[going for water test this arvy 🙂 ]

Anyway – Im also in need of a recoil.. there are currently 2 on ebay – and im not sure if they will fit?

Here is a pic of one – tank complete (i also need the fuel cap!)

And here is just the recoil from a 7.5 apparently:

Some pics from my motor:
December 8, 2017 at 6:03 pm #68404
fisherman6
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
CamaroMan,
The recoils you pictured from EBay are both for water-cooled Elgins. The one you have is air cooled and takes a different recoil. Yours would be vented to allow cooling air to flow through it. I have a motor similar to yours that is a pretty good runner. Unfortunately, I don’t have a spare recoil, but below is a picture of what I believe the one you need would look like.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
December 8, 2017 at 6:58 pm #68405
camaroman
Participant
ah fantastic thanks! I think I saw one on ebay – ill kjeep my eyes open. Much appreciated 🙂 im curious though, will the non vented type fit? Might be using this on salt water once in a while – wd prefer non vented.. Seems to be a good amount of airflow around the head.. think ocean always cooler than lakes?

Any ideas on the carb settings?
December 8, 2017 at 7:26 pm #68406
jerry-ahrens
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US Member
Those motors are great runners when everything is dialed in. You will need to adjust the High speed needle first… must be done on a boat in the water, or at least in a barrel or trash can, etc. Get the motor running full throttle, then gently turn the needle clockwise until it leans out or slows down. Then open the needle slightly until it speeds up and runs smoothly. At this point you can idle down and set the low speed needle. The low speed circuit on these carbs are air metering….. this is important, because OPENING the mixture needle will LEAN it out. The low speed adjustment must be done slowly. Give the motor time to respond after each small adjustment. If it leans coughs, then close the needle slightly to correct. When cold starting the motor you will need to ”nurse” it with the choke until it warms up. Be sure to use air cooled two cycle engine oil. I like Stihl oil used for chain saws and weed eaters, mixed at least 16/1. A little more oil won’t hurt them either. If you run them lean on oil, you will quickly toast the powerhead. Check out the late Art Sesselbergs site for tons of Elgin info. ihttp://www.oddjobmotors.com/nfo. Hope this helps!
December 8, 2017 at 8:24 pm #68407
fisherman6
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
quote CamaroMan:

ah fantastic thanks! I think I saw one on ebay – ill kjeep my eyes open. Much appreciated 🙂 im curious though, will the non vented type fit? Might be using this on salt water once in a while – wd prefer non vented.. Seems to be a good amount of airflow around the head.. think ocean always cooler than lakes?

Any ideas on the carb settings?

I don’t think the non-vented recoil will work. If memory serves it is a different clutch mechanism than this one. Even if it fits, I wouldn’t recommend using it. The fan on the flywheel will not be able to draw air in from above to blow over the cooling fins. The water tube on these only picks up water to cool the exhaust housing. The powerhead is cooled only by the air flow generated by the vanes on the rotating flywheel. With the intake blocked with a solid recoil, I think you would overheat the powerhead in a short time.

The idle tube on these carburetors is VERY small in diameter and rather delicate. It must be completely clean for the engine to run properly. Before removing the float bowl the high speed needle should be removed to prevent damage. The needle engages a seat in part of the bowl casting and both the needle and the seat will be damaged if the needle isn’t at least backed off significantly. Best to remove the needle completely before removing the bowl. The idle tube comes out the top of the carb body. It is the brass bit with the screwdriver slot.

-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
December 8, 2017 at 8:40 pm #68408
frankr
Participant
US Member
It’s just about all been said. Agreed, you need the proper recoil. You also need the 3 balls that lie in the cup. They are just standard ball bearings, but I’m not totally sure what size.

The exhaust is cooled by a ram tube that you will see behind the prop. There is no water pump on this one. The propeller rams water into the tube, along with forward motion through the water. Good system on the lake, but they don’t work real well in a barrel.

Those are one of the only air cooled outboards that I have much love for. They do work well. Salt water is rough on them because it is blowing salt air down across everything.
December 8, 2017 at 9:17 pm #68410
fisherman6
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
If you find the recoil without the ball bearings, let me know. I can measure mine. They’re easy to get to.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube
December 9, 2017 at 1:33 am #68417
jim-moffatt
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
To the best of my recollection the ball bearings are 3/8" diameter.
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