Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1970 85 hp V4
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May 27, 2017 at 12:57 pm #7140
I’ve been asked to look at one of these and know little about them. As the weight of these approaches 300 I have little desire to mess with it.
From looking at marineengine.com it appears these all have the electric/hydraulic gearcase. I understand these default to forward gear in the absence of power to either solenoid. Can anybody advise what to look for here? What fails? Do these work with the same controls as the straight electric lower units?
I’m ignorant on the ignition too, except that very little seems to be available. What to check for here?
Can these be runners for somebody who want to? (not me). Have heard the guzzle fuel.
Thanks for any guidance.
May 27, 2017 at 1:11 pm #58449Yes, that would be the Hydro-Electric shift. And yes, it defaults to forward. And no, the shift switch in the control is different than the Electric Shift. Opinions vary, but I say the Hydro Electric is a good system—if in good condition. Clean oil is absolutely essential and if you let it get dirty and gritty, it is repair city time. That shift switch is getting rare and $$$$$. And of course look out for rotted wiring.
The ignition system was state of the art in it’s day. But not very good by today’s standards. It has breaker points, set at .009-.010". And lubricate the anti-reverse cut-out ring sparingly with EP grease. The ignition amplifier is easy to trash by improper practices. Good battery connections are vital.
Aside from all that, they were very good motors in their day.
May 27, 2017 at 2:59 pm #58456Would appreciate any pointers/tutorial to checking out ignition without damaging it.
Also, info on lubes to use is somewhat confusing and contradictory. Any guidance on a suitable generic product?
May 27, 2017 at 3:37 pm #58461Basic test: Disconnect and unbolt the coil and remove the spark wire from the distributor cap (it unscrews from the cap–rotate the whole coil & wire). Then remount and reconnect the coil and rig up a spark gap off that threaded spark wire terminal. Disconnect the wire going between the timer base/breaker plate and amplifier. Turn on ignition key and lightly brush the amplifier wire against a metal grounded surface. You should get sparks across your spark gap. If you do, everything is working up to that point. Proceed with pulling the flywheel and distributor cap and tend to the points. They don’t burn out like regular points, but the gap changes from wear. And the cut-out ring wears and the metal dust from it contaminates everything.
May 27, 2017 at 3:46 pm #58462May 27, 2017 at 3:49 pm #58463Gearcase lube is Evinrude/BRP "Premium Blend". Originally was "Type C". Still sold as Type C by aftermarket suppliers.
50:1 Fuel mix
May 27, 2017 at 8:17 pm #58472Thanks Frank – I have added that to my list of wiring diagrams . . . 🙂
May 27, 2017 at 8:54 pm #58473Thanks, Frank. Will study the wiring diag. It doesn’t look overwhelming. I can probably find it somewhere, but if you happen to have the shift switch diagram……
Alan
May 27, 2017 at 10:07 pm #58477Just 3 terminals on the bottom of it. The wires shown above go to it. Electrically, it sends 12V to the green wire for neutral and to BOTH green and blue wires for reverse. No voltage to anything defaults to forward.
May 28, 2017 at 4:15 am #58499The motor is an 85ESL72R (=1972). The control box does not seem to be the one shown on Marineengine for this motor. The shape is different (rectangular) the throttle friction screw is on the back rather than the top, and the handle is different, with what seems like a momentary rocker switch connected to a three wire cable–I think this is for tilt/trim. And the box has two push-pull cables. So I think this is a control box for a mechanical shift motor and not usable with this motor. (??) Looks to me as if there is a pushbutton shift box for this motor type, and also the one where the shift switch is integrated into the throttle lever, but this is neither…..
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