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bobw.
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May 23, 2018 at 1:39 am #10012
I am going to look at this motor and owner says it’s manual shift. I read somewhere they all were hydro-electric shift and they had problems and parts can be expensive. True? Maybe he doesn’t know
May 23, 2018 at 1:50 am #76590The 1972 65hp motor was hydro-electric shift.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."May 23, 2018 at 2:07 am #76592The shift control switch on the throttle box was prone to failure and a new OEM switch is like $200 but you can fab up a comparable control switch for a lot less. The gearcase shift solenoids are usually the other issue and you might find NOS replacements for maybe $75-$100 each.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."May 23, 2018 at 2:27 am #76593It is possible he does not know the correct year of his engine. Perhaps he has a 1973 65hp which is a hydro mechanical shift. If the engine has two control cables, it is a mechanical shift. If there is only one cable, it is an electric shift.
On the other hand, I am kind of fond of the 1972 65hp models. These engines did indeed have the hyrdro-electric shift gearcase, but they also had the simple/reliable mag-flash (magCD) ignition. The hydro electric shift gearcases are pretty reliable, no real internal issues unless water gets inside. But yes, you would have to ensure that the control box wiring/harness/shift switch are in good shape.May 23, 2018 at 11:50 am #76600The shift solenoids seem to have a lot of bad publicity, but I’ve found them to be very reliable. The real issues are the $$$ switch in the control and dirty lube in the gearcase. By dirty, I mean microscopic wear grit that jams the shifter piston in the oil pump. That’s why you are supposed to change the oil as a regular maintenance item.
May 23, 2018 at 2:44 pm #76609quote FrankR:The shift solenoids seem to have a lot of bad publicity, but I’ve found them to be very reliable. The real issues are the $$$ switch in the control and dirty lube in the gearcase. By dirty, I mean microscopic wear grit that jams the shifter piston in the oil pump. That’s why you are supposed to change the oil as a regular maintenance item.I’m with you Frank, I have never seen any problems with the shift solenoids…And yes, the key to longevity is keeping the gear lube clean and water free….But then, isn’t that to key to longevity on any gearcase?
May 23, 2018 at 6:48 pm #76622Guess I was relating solenoid problems to a friend of mine with an electric shift who kept having problems because he always seemed to have a leaky gearcase.
Bob
1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings." -
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