Home Forum Ask A Member 1975 Evinrude Mate

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  • #81777
    shane-r13
    Participant
      quote fleetwin:

      Shane
      Have you posted about this engine previously, sounds familiar to me…
      Did you replace the piston rings? I seem to remember a post about an engine that couldn’t be made to run after replacing the piston rings, so forgive me if I am confusing your current post with an unrelated one…
      First, if you did replace the rings, did you get the piston oriented correctly back in the cylinder? The sharp side in the piston dome reflector needs to face the intake parts, which are on the right side of the engine block when viewed with the cylinder head facing you.
      These engines run pretty well, until they don’t…..In other words, when they are worn out internally, they tend to be hard starting, idle poorly, and don’t develop full power. Your compression sounds OK, but new rings are only half the story here. Piston skirt fit to the cylinder wall is critical to ensure the correct intake charges are developed and delivered to the combustion chamber. In other words, you could have great compression, but poor crankcase sealing. And yes, the lower seal on these engines is a common issue. When water gets into the lower needle bearing, things go south quickly, this affects the lower seal also creating a crankcase leak. Damage is usually pretty obvious when you remove the lower seal/bearing/housing…But, be careful, sometimes the needles love to fall out of a serviceable lower needle bearing when it is removed. You may have honed the cylinder oversize when you had it apart, did you hone the cylinder? In any event, if you decide to disassemble the powerhead again, it is crucial to measure the cylinder bore and piston skirt carefully.
      All that being said, it is important not just to “assume” this engine is worn out internally. You mention that the engine “hunts/lopes in RPM” at high speed as well as low speed, which is an interesting symptom. I have never encountered a worn out 2hp that hunts, usually just is hard starting/poor idle/low on WOT power. Hunting surely sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I know you said the carburetor looked pretty clean inside, maybe there is a problem with the fuel valve on the tank, these get pretty rusted/crapped up, I’m sure you have already replaced the fuel line. These carburetors usually don’t wear out, but can be damaged from lack of use, corrosion/rust. Oftentimes the throttle shafts get stiff and don’t move easily. Forcing a seized throttle shaft can cause further damage by bending the shaft or distorting the butterfly valve. The easiest thing to do would be to just try another carburetor, but I’m sure you don’t have one on hand…I might have one, will look when I get home. I suppose the reeds could be damaged, it is not difficult to pull the intake manifold and have look also. Like others have said, packing nuts that are loose can create an air leak also. An ignition issue is possible, though unlikely. Like I say, these engines usually suffer from lack of use, things getting rusted and jammed. So, a stiff set of ignition points might created a running issue like this, the point cams often get rusted on these engines also, make sure the oiler wick is in place and properly lubricated.
      I know you see this as a fun project, and it is for sure. But, it is easy to spend a lot of money on powerhead repairs, so I don’t recommend getting in too deep on this little engine.

      Yup I had posted about my 2hp before. That one was a 1972 block. The block was toasted. So I picked up another that happened to be this 75, I ordered new rings and used my new electronic I had on the 72, and it’s crank seal since this didn’t have one. I also used the carb from the 72 since I had cleaned and rebuilt it minus the Welch plug.

      So it’s a mash up of two motors now haha. It runs and works fine for my purposes as a trolling motor on my 14ft. It I know it doesn’t run perfect.

      One thing is my 1972 motor didn’t have a little air intake covering that my 1975 came with, I’m using the intake but I wonder if it would have a positive effect taking it off?

      #81816
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        OK, well anything is possible, that is for sure….So, it is surely worth the minimal effort to remove the plastic air intake and try it that way…
        It is also worth trying the carb from the other engine as well. Are you sure the carb air vent isn’t accidentally plugged with a screw….I remember an incident I had years ago in the shop with one of these engines, someone had rearranged some screws and plugged the carb vent. Usually, the carb will flood over when this happens though. The only other thing I can think of is the choke mechanism…Is the plastic choke knob detent in place and working OK? The choke will be able to flop around if the plastic detent is missing, which might explain the hunting symptoms.
        You resused the original lower crankcase head/seal assembly, were you able to look at the lower seal in the process? The seal may be fine, hard to say.
        Is the engine hard to start when cold, or warm? If the engine seems to start OK, this is often a good indicator that the powerhead is OK.

        #81823
        shane-r13
        Participant

          I’ll take a peek st the carb vent, it isn’t flooding over so I assume it’s not that but worth a quick peek to eliminate it . Stupid me sold the other motor including carb for parts. Plastic indent is there for the choke and holds it firm. It starts rather easy, but always needs to be choked warm or cold. The lower seal looked ok but I didn’t have anything to compare it too since it was missing.

          #81827
          cajuncook1
          Participant
            quote Shane.R13:

            I’ll take a peek st the carb vent, it isn’t flooding over so I assume it’s not that but worth a quick peek to eliminate it . Stupid me sold the other motor including carb for parts. Plastic indent is there for the choke and holds it firm. It starts rather easy, but always needs to be choked warm or cold. The lower seal looked ok but I didn’t have anything to compare it too since it was missing.

            Very common for this motor. It is not uncommon to use the choke to start this motor even when warm.

            Cajun

            #81886
            outbdnut2
            Participant

              US Member

              Take a spray can of carb cleaner with a long skinny tube and blow it through all the low speed gas passages:

              – Hole in top side of carb bowl flange – cleaner should come freely out in bottom of bowl.
              – Hole in top section of carb that mates with hole in side of carb bowl mentioned above. When doing this, take out low speed needle and blow cleaner through with needle hole open and again with your finger blocking it – look for carb cleaner to come through idle holes in top of carb throat near where throttle plate hits upper wall of carb throat.
              – blow carb cleaner into needle valve hole to further flush the passages above.

              Make sure carb bowl gasket does not restrict or block gas from passing through that passage up the side of the bowl. It should seal around that hole.

              Dave

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