Aligning Taper Pin Removal

[drifter]

Is there a technique for removing the crankcase aligning pins on the smaller 1950’s OMC outboards?
I know they are driven towards the carburetor. One is easy to get to but the other is at a tough angle for a drift.
Thanks,
Drifter

[bobw]

Attached is a photo posted by another member some time ago showing how to use a nut/bolt combination to drive the pin out on the smaller block motors. Great idea – worked well on my motor.

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Attachments:

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[frankr]

You are going to remove the offending exhaust cover anyway–aren’t you?

[Mumbles]

As mentioned, removing the pin on the 5.5 – 6 horse motors is a lot easier with the exhaust cover removed. A sharp rap on a long punch will get them moving.

[theodore]

Could you drop a 5/16 or 3/8 nut over the big end of the pin, then pinch with a big vise grip between the nut and pin small end?

[dan-in-tn]

Not saying you didn’t, but always remove the pins first (while block is still bolted together) and install pins first. Just make it a habit. They come out better when everything is held firm. The pin is tapered so like mentioned usually give with a quick rap. On installation no need to drive then down hard, just for alignment.

Later service manuals show a special tool that can be made for removal. Works great! I’ll see if I can find a pic.

Dan in TN

[drifter]

I did remove the exhaust cover. Still not a lot of room for a drift. I did remove the pins prior to loosening the bolts. I just knew there had to be an easier way than the angle I had to hold a drift. Thanks for the tips.

[Author]

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