Home Forum Ask A Member Aluminum Polishing Issues

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  • #9430
    seakaye12
    Participant

      US Member

      Hello All….
      I am working on sanding prior to polishing an aluminum gas-tank band from a green-top Mercury Mark 5. They were originally painted in a hammer-tone finish.

      I have sanded and worked my way up to a 500 grit but no matter how much I sand….there remains various imperfections….dark colored spots and specs that just don’t go away.

      What can be done? What am I seeing? Please have a look at the picture and see if you can help.

      Thanks, Chuck

      #72606
      chris-p
      Participant

        What did you start with? If not heavy enough, you will only get so much out.

        #72607
        20mercman
        Participant

          US Member

          That’s corrosion Chuck. This can be very difficult to remove. As Chris said, with the more coarse grits, you need to get them out as much as possible before going to more fine grits. Sometimes you can’t get everything out, or if you do, you have removed a lot of material to get below the corrosion.

          Steve

          #72609
          punchbug
          Participant

            If these are die-cast aluminum, then pitting is all to common for the process. A vacuum draws the molten metal into the die cavity. If there is any leakage in the die cast seal tiny bubbles (pitting) will form. There are many other reason for this as well but it is not relevant to this topic. Long story short it could be corrosion it could be pitting either way it is near impossible to get out.

            #72621
            seakaye12
            Participant

              US Member

              OK; Thanks for the replies.

              Just to be clear…..the marks are not depressions. It is more like a stain which apparently goes deep under the surface….as additional sanding has little if any effect.

              I guess this is why Mercury chose to paint the surface?

              #72628
              sydinnj
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                see what buffing will do for it.

                #72646
                pm-t2
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years
                  quote punchbug:

                  If these are die-cast aluminum, then pitting is all to common for the process. A vacuum draws the molten metal into the die cavity. If there is any leakage in the die cast seal tiny bubbles (pitting) will form. There are many other reason for this as well but it is not relevant to this topic. Long story short it could be corrosion it could be pitting either way it is near impossible to get out.

                  a little lesson about diecasting.

                  Vacuum is only used to attempt to evacuate as much air (or gas) as possible from the die cavity area(s). It has nothing to do with the metal flow.

                  The molten metal is forced into the die at pressures approaching 3000 PSI. Bubbles (or blisters) in the die cast process are typically due gas being trapped in the cavities, most likely to excessive moisture (i.e. water leak, heavy die spray residue) being present during the fill phase. It is possible to see some evidence of what is referred to as "shrinkage voids or porosity" in extremely heavy cross sections of a diecast part, simply because the larger amount of mass causes internal holes to form due to shrinkage during solidification and cooling, but you’d most likely have to cut the part open to find it.

                  Gravity-pour castings (i.e. sand castings) normally don’t use vacuum evacuation as part of the process. If an aluminum sand casting needs to meet pressure requirements (i.e. leak test spec) then it needs to go through an impregnation process to seal up the pores that are always present,.

                  Simply put – If a die cast part exhibits surface pitting immediately after casting, it’s likely cause by solder or metal build-up on the cavity or cores of the tooling, or some other fault occurring that is affecting die cooling, die spray, etc..

                  If it shows up years after the part has been cast, its corrosion.

                  As for the tank band – Your part is corroded. Period. The black stains are oxidation that has eaten its way into the pores of the material. Unprotected aluminum will oxidize naturally, due to exposure to moisture or contaminants in the air. You may be able to bleach them out, but not likely. If you buff it,the spots will appear to diminish or shrink away, so that might be your best option other than sanding them out or hitting it with glass bead. Either way, it requires some removal of the substrate in order to get down to where the stain has penetrated.

                  Hope this helps.

                  Best,
                  PM T2

                  #72672
                  punchbug
                  Participant

                    Thanks Chris I am sad to hear that I wasted my time replacing seals on a vertical die cast machine for two years as an operator. Wish I would have know that a vacuum leak has no bearing on porosity. Of course that was 40 years ago so maybe my memory is a little cloudy and I am sure the technology has not change at all. Sorry Seakaye I was just trying to help. You better listen to Chris. By the way those shrouds were made when?

                    #72676
                    putback
                    Participant

                      I’ve done a lot of alum buffing on vintage Airstreams and old alum boats. Never found a shortcut. I generally use a dewalt angle polisher with an Airway cotton cloth edge wheel and bar buffing compound. Busch Enterprises has the materials and good info. I rarely use sandpaper eventually you have to buff deeper than the deepest scratch where as the Tripoli Bar [brown] #63030 compound is a fast aggressive 1st cut, then you can skip to white bar #63020 to polish. On decient grade aluminum you will get a mirror finish. Now if, BIG IF, its possible the black stains were caused by back and forth sanding, resetting the removed material back into the just polished alum.Yea, sounds foolish, read the info at the Busch site. Try wiping it with accitone or even alcohal. Polish one direction if possible. The wheel compound technique will do well on and around the letters but beware of "molecular migration", [with experiance you can use that problem to fill pits!] agian Busch site. What I think I see in the pic I’d guess less than 2 hrs to finish.

                      #72724
                      pm-t2
                      Participant

                        Canada Member - 2 Years

                        Just dropping this here for your amusement

                        http://cottamdiecasting.com/history/

                        Regards,
                        Christopher Scratch
                        Vice-President,
                        Cottam Diecasting Limited

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