Coil wire terminal assembly improvement?

[Alan]

Can this be done better?
Instructions say to press the terminal through the sheath of the wire, into the core. Making sure the end of the wire core touches the side of the terminal.
Even after being inserted into the boot, which I’m sure helps support it, this seems kinda flimsy.
Anyone have any suggestions to beef this connection up?
All opinions welcome and appreciated;
Alan

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Attachments:

[dave-bernard]

I flair the wire. then insert the terminal in sideways so it is tight when I turn it to the correct position. ( MAKE SURE THE TERMINAL GOES THRU THE WIRE AND NOT JUST ALONG SIDE IT.)

[Pete]

As Dave says is the way I do it. Getting the right position of the stab pin is needed for a good fit when the terminal piece it rotated to position. After pushing on the boot and cleaning rubber with lacquer thinner I seal the boot end at the plug wire with black E6000 rubber based adhesive to prevent rotation of the boot to the wire and a seal as well. E6000 has huge uses great product.

[billw]

I pre-puncture the wire with a small awl, so that the terminal goes easily straight through the core; otherwise, they have a tendency to walk sideways when you push the pointed part of the terminal through. Then, I also rotate straight, for a tight fit, as the other guys do. I spray a little WD-40, CRC 6-56, etc, in the boot so the terminal will go in easily. Don’t worry; it will dry up and leave a tight fit. Been doing it this way for about 45 years with no problems. When assembled in the boot, it is not flimsy at all.

Long live American manufacturing!

[frankr]

quote BillW:

I pre-puncture the wire with a small awl, so that the terminal goes easily straight through the core; otherwise, they have a tendency to walk sideways when you push the pointed part of the terminal through. Then, I also rotate straight, for a tight fit, as the other guys do. I spray a little WD-40, CRC 6-56, etc, in the boot so the terminal will go in easily. Don’t worry; it will dry up and leave a tight fit. Been doing it this way for about 45 years with no problems. When assembled in the boot, it is not flimsy at all.

Likewise. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

[amuller]

These things are called "sparkys." They have never been used on cars in my experience, and not usually on lawn/garden equipment, but they have been usual on outboards for decades. As long as you are using metal-core wire and make sure to poke through the conductor, they work fine. MIght want to use a lube, as mentioned, to make it easier to get the boot on.

[Mumbles]

Sharpening the point so it is even on both sides helps it to go in straight instead of veering off to one side as they like to do. I do the final squeeze with a pair of pliers. Checking the wire to the terminal with an ohmmeter will confirm contact with the wire core before rolling the end over. Silicone spray helps it slide into the boot.

Removing old boots is easier if they are soaked in hot water for a few minutes. Sometimes a small screwdriver will need to be inserted around the wire to break it free from the boot. This is especially true if the terminal is rusted badly.

[rudderless]

I strip about 1/2 inch of wire. Insert spring through insulation as directed. Wrap stripped end around the spring support couple of times. Pull remaining wire between the two top coils to secure the end of the wire. Trim excess.

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