Dark Side Confusion

[Mumbles]

I finally got my $15 Merc 200 out of the truck and since I’m feeling adventurous today, figured it would be a good time to check it out a bit. But since my experience with these motors is limited, I have a question or two.

First, how do you get the dang hood or band or whatever comes off it off? This thing is already being a challenge and I haven’t even blown the cobwebs off it yet.

Second, any idea what year it is? Being a red band, I’m guessing from the early-mid seventies?

HELP!

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[Mumbles]

I found this in my library. Now I think it’s a ’68 – ’69 model?

A big brother for my ’68 model 60!

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[bill-loveland]

quote Mumbles:

I finally got my $15 Merc 200 out of the truck and since I’m feeling adventurous today, figured it would be a good time to check it out a bit. But since my experience with these motors is limited, I have a question or two.

First, how do you get the dang hood or band or whatever comes off it off?

you need the special factory hood/band removal tool 🙂

unscrew knob at bottom of faceplate, pull off faceplate and expose two adjustable cammed catches – when you see it, it will make more sense than I can describe without pictures

and thank you – that pic is now in my library too 🙂

[bill-loveland]

My bad. There should be a button under the starter handle. Push that in to release the faceplate.

[jpatti75]

Looks like a 1969, Mumbles. I have a ‘68 and the decals are similar, but the 1969 models have the Merc 200 decal on the recoil housing…the ‘68s don’t. Also, the DynaFloat (if they were still called that by that time period) covers on yours are indicative of ‘69, the ones on the ‘68s are less distinctive.

Your 200 has the Lightening ignition. I believe in 1969 Mercury started transitioning to the Thunderbolt ignition on the 200s, which I believe became standard by 1970. Like Bill said, there should be a white button under the recoil handle that releases the faceplate, and then you can pop the two hinges that release the band. ‘68-‘69 was also a transitional period for the lower unit. The older style shifted UP for forward and DOWN for reverse, and later model ‘68s and 1969 forward, the lower units shifted like OMCs — pull the lever forward to go forward, and push it back to go backwards (imagine that).

Look for rotten kill switching wiring on these Mercs. The insulation and wire just disintegrates over time on the Mercs from these periods. My 200 has tons of power, is pretty good on fuel, but it can get a little finicky from time to time. Overall, a solid motor and fun to run.

Let me know if I can help!
JP

[dave-bernard]

1969 by serial ####

[20mercman]

This is indeed a 1969. In my opinion, one of the best years for the Mercury 200! I have lots of these 200’s, so I have quite a bit of experience with them, and the 1969 are one of my favorites!. The 1969 was the last year of the Phelon magneto. A good system, These also had padded blocks, so they performed very well. Built while it still had metal in some of the areas that were later replaced with plastic. (I could go into detail, but these are really nice motors.)

Ask any question, these are not difficult to work on!

[Mumbles]

Thanks guys. I knew there were some good Merc experts on this site!

After I posted my original post, I went back out and studied it a bit more. Sure enough, I found the white button Bill was referring to and it was off with the band! I wanted to get the starter off but to do that, I had to undo the three nuts holding the top piece on which the starter rope is threaded thru. Is this the normal way to remove the starter, along with the top piece? I sure didn’t want to cut the starter rope or it might have rewound on me!

It has NGK surface gap plugs in it and I couldn’t see any rust or scoring while looking thru the plug holes but the motor seemed tight. Eventually I could rock it back and forth with about an inch travel on the ring gear but it had a springy feeling. Same with the prop shaft, I can turn it slightly with my foot but it doesn’t move to much. It might be stuck in gear to but now I’m thinking the powerhead is free along with the gearcase but the driveshaft is locked solid somewhere. Would this motor have the ball bearing right below the water pump which likes to rust out as on smaller Mercs?

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[billw]

Pre-1976 Mercurys have a long and glorious history of locked-up lower units. For the 15 bucks you paid, you can almost take it to the bank. Surprisingly, the lower unit will come off easier than an OMC, IF, IF, the drive shaft is not a permanent part of the crank shaft. Divide and conquer.

As for the recoil dilemma, this is yet another example of Mercury engineers looking out at the market to see how others did it, then did the opposite, themselves. You at least have to give them credit for not being copy cats. You should not have to cut the cord to remove. It is weaved into the starter handle’s aluminum insert. Simple to remove, then slide off the top cowl. In a pinch, for quick checks, I have been known to use the entire top cowl as a gigantic starter handle….It’s a just a Dark Side thing. Welcome, young Skywalker.

Long live American manufacturing!

[crosbyman]

I had of those years ago… it died when a one inch hole appeared on the side of the crankcase ….silly me trashed it instead of finding a new ph

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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