Home Forum Ask A Member Hi all! Help with Goodyear 5hp 1954 (3564)

Viewing 7 posts - 11 through 17 (of 17 total)
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  • #66685
    camaroman
    Participant

      Hi -the inline is not a gap type, it has a bulb that lights up. Yes tried new plugs. My 54 elgin makes a strong snappy spark and almost have that running, however im really struggling with the goodyear/gale 58 one..

      If the plug wont even jump going bigger wont help. Im wondering if my drill isnt going fast enough to provide better spark. Im re assembling the carb now to see if a good clean out helps..

      #66708
      frankr
      Participant

        US Member

        It is rather rare to find one of those coils to be bad. If you register a few k-ohms across the secondary. consider it good.
        In the overwhelming majority of cases, poor spark is due to dirty points. Take them completely apart, degrease everything, and polish each contact shiny bright. Reassemble and set the gap to .020", and you probably will have good fire. Do the points sets one at a time so you have a sample of how they go together.

        #66720
        fisherman6
        Participant

          US Member - 2 Years

          Sorry, I somehow missed the inline part. I have both kinds. I tend to use the inline type only to diagnose a bad cylinder if I have a miss that I’m having trouble tracking down. If I’m working on an engine doing tune up work, I use an open air tester to check for spark. I guess I’m so used to my own methods, I just missed that part. That doesn’t mean my methods are the best, just what works for me.

          I have had neon inline testers show a dull light when the plug isn’t firing enough to light the charge in the cylinder. It is much more obvious when running two inline testers at once with the other plug firing properly to see the difference in intensity.

          Frank is spot on about the points. They are usually the culprit.
          -Ben

          OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

          #66733
          camaroman
          Participant

            Hi all – Good news, got her running yesterday!!! And like a champ!! After a few mins warm up idled PERFECT and sounded real smooth. Im not very familiar with these, how does the water circulate? I ran it out of the water but for like 20s max..

            Will a barrel suffice or does it need prop thrust to push water somewhere? And shd the cluster of round grate holes in the middle also be submerged?

            My cordless 18v lithium drill worked fine on the little 2hp but I think it was enough "beef" for the 5hp. Pulling it worked, however i still could not see a spark – but it ran gr8!

            Thanks all for the suggestions – Ive made a little youtube video with some tips to setup the coils ill upload soon (after editing). Cant wait to run this guy on the water ow (just need a little boat now lol)..

            #66739
            garry-in-michigan
            Participant

              Lifetime Member

              They will overheat in a barrel after a while as bubbles of exhaust get mixed in the water and lower the efficiency of the water jacket. It should be good at an idle as long as the pump rotor is tight on the eccentric it will supply plenty of water. Those models had Oillite bearings on the prop shaft which are semipermeable. Some oil additives will cause the rotor to swell. This decreases the movement and volume of water. It there are ANY gaps between the eccentric and rotor, replace it. Space on the OUTSIDE of the rotor is good, that is where the water is. . . 🙂

              #66742
              garry-in-michigan
              Participant

                Lifetime Member

                To be more lucid . . . 😀

                #66755
                camaroman
                Participant

                  great thanks that REALLY helps – I might tear her down at some place – this will be mighty valuable! Much appreciated guys – really!

                Viewing 7 posts - 11 through 17 (of 17 total)
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