Hiawatha 5 hp

[Buccaneer]

Decided to start tearing apart my $20 "froze up" 1953 Hiawatha 350MI 7972B (Gale 5S10)
today. I got all the bolts out of the cylinder covers, but the old sealer is holding
them on for dear life. There’s really nothing to tap on. Should I play a propane torch
around the covers to loosen the sealer? I’d like to get the covers off to help
in freeing up the engine.
Also, is there any parts numbers "out there" for this model? I have the repair
manual with diagrams, etc.
Thanks!

Prepare to be boarded!

[garry-in-michigan]

NO! The super glue used is really great. The cover is often damaged getting if off, and there is really nothing in there to see. Once off, they always leak. The water jackets are huge! If you can run water through them, they are good to go.

. . . . . 😀

[garry-in-michigan]

P.S.
That information is in the clubs database website – if you are a member go to my dropbox account.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public/Gale%20Parts%20and%20service/Gale%201951-1955/Gale%205S10%2C%2011%2C%2012

[frankr]

Factory service manual said to send the block back to the factory for resealing the covers if ever removed. And I agree, they are nearly impossible to reseal. Well at least they were back in the day. There may be some better stuff available today. I dunno, because I’m not taking any apart!!

[Buccaneer]

Thanks Gary and Frank for the sage advice! I was thinking by taking them off I’d be exposing
the cylinder ports, and could then hose down the sides of the pistons to help free them.
I didn’t know it was just water jacket covers!
Thanks, Tom

Prepare to be boarded!

[mr-asa]

I took the covers off a 12D10. Helped minimally in freeing the engine. You will see the exhaust ports if it is like mine enough.

I still need to find out why one cyl isn’t showing spark, but I think it will stay sealed. Used red RTV basically. Milled and lapped the surfaces flat before that, though.

[frankr]

It is true that the exhaust ports will be in view on the 5hp, but the other side is just water.

[Buccaneer]

I would think if using a product like Yamabond the covers
would reseal, but I’ll take ya’lls advice, and only remove
the "exhaust" cover if all other methods of freeing the
pistons fail. Thanks!

Prepare to be boarded!

[mr-asa]

quote Buccaneer:

I would think if using a product like Yamabond the covers
would reseal, but I’ll take ya’lls advice, and only remove
the “exhaust” cover if all other methods of freeing the
pistons fail. Thanks!

I actually tested the adhesive and heat resistant properties of the Red RTV, several different types of Yamabond, and a couple others. Made a series of 3/4"X2" aluminum plates, bonded them all to another base plate of aluminum. Separated them through a peeling test to simulate a bolt failure, and a shear test as well. Then I reapplied everything and heated everything to 200 F, held it there for a good 30 minutes or so, pulled them out and let them cool and did the same tests.

Pre-heat and post-heat, the Red RTV vastly outperformed any other brand

[frankr]

That’s very interesting. Thanks for doing the research.

[Author]

Posts