Topic: Mark 5 recoil – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 12 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 5 months ago by fastjohn.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 13 total)

1 2 →

Author

Posts
October 27, 2018 at 2:30 am #11684
opposedtwin
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Why does this cable keep getting pinched in the pawls? Is there a trick to this recoil? It retracts v-e-r-y slowly. I suppose i need to take it all apart and put new white lithium grease in there so it retracts more quickly. Is the cable correct? I wonder if it’s too long. It’s almost 4 feet long. Any idea of the appropriate length? I know OMC had different lengths for different models.

Any words of wisdom for me?
Thanks in advance!
Scott

Attachments:
October 27, 2018 at 3:26 am #85032
dave-bernard
Participant
US Member
yes clean and lightly lube simple rewind to work on . 1 914 310 7086
October 27, 2018 at 12:01 pm #85040
mercuryman
Participant
That looks too thick, I will measure my cable and post it.
October 27, 2018 at 1:51 pm #85043
dave-bernard
Participant
US Member
to thick wont fit in the scheeve.
October 27, 2018 at 9:55 pm #85072
mercuryman
Participant
I have two Mark 5 and the cable is about .09 inch your cable looks larger.
October 27, 2018 at 11:28 pm #85076
opposedtwin
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
I got this motor in a group buy. The recoil was disconnected completely. Maybe a po tried to replace the cable and tgat’s where it all went wrong. I’ll check the cable thickness and go from there.
October 27, 2018 at 11:43 pm #85078
dave-bernard
Participant
US Member
pull the 3 screws and plate and 2 paws. the recoil will work . when it is fine then put the paws and plate back on. the rewind will lock up if it is not on the motor . it must engage the flywheel nut to work.
October 28, 2018 at 9:29 am #85091
billw
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
quote Dave Bernard:

pull the 3 screws and plate and 2 paws. the recoil will work . when it is fine then put the paws and plate back on. the rewind will lock up if it is not on the motor . it must engage the flywheel nut to work.

When testing it off the motor, you can hold the recoil upside down and temporarily put a short 1/2" drive socket, say maybe size 7/8", in to the recoil where the toothed flywheel nut would go. This keeps the pawls from over-extending and locking up the recoil.

Long live American manufacturing!
October 31, 2018 at 3:28 am #85227
opposedtwin
Participant
US Member - 2 Years
Well, more trouble. My cable measures 3/32 so that should be fine. Now I can’t get at the allen screw which holds the sheave screw because I can’t get the neutral lever assy off of the recoil housing. I removed the 3 screws which hold it on but it’s still rock solid. Tried tapping with a drift set through the holes where the screws go but it wouldn’t budge. Any suggestions? Here are some more pics.

Are the pawls supposed to just sit loose on their bosses? The manual mentions some anti-rattle springs but I didn’t see anything like that. Are they supposed to be there?

EDIT: can’t seem to add pics because the site is going through the changes.
October 31, 2018 at 1:30 pm #85239
20mercman
Participant
US Member
Scott, to remove the Allen screw, I have cut an Allen wrench down so it will fit in under the handle. I hate it when I find top handles that have had holes drilled through them to get to the bolt. Usually on Mk-20’s. These are often pretty tight, but at least on green tank motors, they usually are not rusted in place, just tight. Be careful to try to not spin the wrench in the bolt, as then you will have no choice but to drill the sheave bolt head off. As for the anti-rattle springs, these are just wave washers that sit under the pawls. Not critical for the operation of the recoil assembly.

Steve
Author

Posts