Must-Do Items Before Trying to Start a ’57 ?

[markpj23]

Before I make a costly mistake I thought I’d ask for your advice. I just got my first antique outboard – a 57 Golden Javelin – and it seems to be in very good mechanical condition. No stains or signs of running hot under the cowl. Shift linkage moves freely and when using the pull starter rope the prop turns in the correct direction relative to the shifter. I can see the mechanical advance working under the flywheel, and just bumping the electric starter proves that it works fine. It was about that time that I thought I’d better ask for some tips before I got carried away and damaged this thing through lack of knowledge.

So – what things should I do or check before I try to start this motor for my first time? I’ve read in other threads that I’ll want to run 27:1 mix fuel, and I still don’t have a gas can or fuel hose, so of course I need those. I’ll pull the spark plugs of course – should I fog the cylinders or something? Should I figure out how to check / replace the water pump impeller? replace water pump seals?

Any and all input would be a great help. Thanks in advance,

[chris-p]

Step 1: Test Compression. Report findings after testing cold and dry.
Step 2: If compression checks out, test spark. Set an inline tester to 1/4". Spark should jump with a bright blue ZAP!! If weak or non existent spark, time to pop the flywheel and inspect ignition.
Step 3: Before running, drain old gear oil and replace with new. Install new crush washers on drain and vent screws.
Step 4: Drop gearcase and install new impeller.

At that point start it and decide if you need to pull the carb to clean/rebuild. Looks like someone has already done the fuel lines.

Keep us updated!

[garry-in-michigan]

I see the compression release link is missing, that will make it a little harder to crank. I like to coat the pump impeller with antifreez to provide lubrication before being put in the water. . . 😎

[frankr]

I have found that if you are strong enough to pull it, they will actually start better without the compression relief. That might be why so many of them are disconnected.

[outbdnut2]

Do you know when it was last run? If it has been in regular use recently you can probably just connect a gas can and start it. If not, Do what Chris said. If you don’t have a compression gauge, slowly pull the rope until you feel each cylinder go through a compression stroke – if it feels firm and about equal, you don’t need to measure compression. Regardless of if it has been used recently or not, I’d change the lower unit gear oil and look at what does or doesn’t drain out.

Once it starts, look for a strong stream of water coming from that big hole halfway between the powerhead and the water.

After running a few gallons of gas on a boat, I’d drain the gear oil again and look for water in it which will turn it a milky color.

You mentioned fogging – that is done when you are going to store it.

Did you get the starter solenoid box that mounts in the boat and wiring harness with start and choke buttons with it? You can rope start it without this, but will need this stuff to use electric start.

I see the linkage is missing that prevents use of the rope starter if the throttle is up too high – be careful, and be sure it’s in neutral when starting. Having it in gear and the throttle up too high when rope starting is a good way to fall out of the boat.
Dave

[markpj23]

quote outbdnut2:

Do you know when it was last run?

No idea – since it was estate situation my guess is it was just shed stored for the past several years.

quote outbdnut2:

You mentioned fogging – that is done when you are going to store it.

Yes of course but my thinking was that fogging oil might prevent cylinder scratching / scoring before the oil / fuel mix gets to the cylinder.

quote outbdnut2:

Did you get the starter solenoid box that mounts in the boat and wiring harness with start and choke buttons with it? You can rope start it without this, but will need this stuff to use electric start.

No it did not come with these parts but I am going to call the seller and see if he has these lying around.

quote outbdnut2:

I see the linkage is missing that prevents use of the rope starter if the throttle is up too high – be careful, and be sure it’s in neutral when starting. Having it in gear and the throttle up too high when rope starting is a good way to fall out of the boat.

Good to know – thanks.

[phil-b]

If you barrel test it before/without replacing the impeller, and you’re new to this, the pump impeller is above the inlets (just below the mating seam), and the pump doesn’t draw water without being primed/submerged, so make sure you get it in deep enough!

[rook49]

quote outbdnut2:

Having it in gear and the throttle up too high when rope starting is a good way to fall out of the boat.

That made me chuckle. I could write a book on the many ways people found to fall out of their boats at my grandpa’s Three ‘Rivers Boat Dock in Knoxville, TN back in the 50s and 60s. Did you ever see the look on a guys face when he’s stepping into a rocking docked boat carrying an outboard motor in his hands that he’s planning to hang on the transom of the boat and then instead gets off balance and drops it into the river and then falls in behind it while trying to catch it? I was just a kid and it was all I could do to keep from laughing. It was no laughing matter of course but damn it was funny to watch. 😆

[markpj23]

OK so the compression test shows 80psi on both cylinders. Sounds waaay too low to me. What is normal for this motor?

[chris-p]

Depends on the meter and method for testing, but 100 is about average.

Did you use electric starter to test?

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