New to this. I have questions

[pmd83]

Hi, I have had multiple referrals to this site, so here I am.
I am totally new to boating. My Dad and I just restored our project, about 1 year to complete.
1962 – 17 ft. Barbour Boat Works – Model 17D (mahogany, Silver Clipper Deluxe with mahogany/glass windshield) Repainted to original color scheme Seafoam Green on Evergreen with a black pinstripe.
1961 Merc Model 400 EL, Serial 1389583 in Cloud White. 45 HP, 4 cylinder.
1959 TeeNee Trailer, sandblasted and painted original canary yellow.

I am working on a website documenting the project it will take some time.

My questions:
The 2 blade prop has a chip out of it about the size of half a penny. The boat seems to have a speed that it doesn’t like, it shakes the boat with a noticeable vibration, it happens at faster than a putt putt speed but you can throttle through it and it goes away. I have some telling me it is the prop, I am just not sure of that. Thoughts? I am not having much luck finding a replacement prop, any advice? Also can I do greater than a 2 blade prop and if so, what would that provide me? I told you I am new to this.

There is an oil/exhaust leak in what I assume is a gasket between the power head and the upper shaft. It leaves a drip resembling a couple half pieces of spaghetti. It does not seem to effect the running of the Merc. Is this a serious issue, as in it should not be run until fixed?

Third question, what should I be using for a gas oil ratio? I have had suggestions all over the place. I ran 32:1 in the first outing and then topped the tank off (1/2) with a 40:1 mix. I hear things about the "new" TCW3 oils calling for leaner mixes.

The Merc sat since I believe 1989 and was turned over monthly. New gear oil and impeller. We had a new stator installed (not easy to source that, but we found one used) the previous one had a massive meltdown from 30 years ago, melted plastic throughout the power head, and down the shaft, not sure what caused that. We had the carbs rebuilt and it started and runs very well, except for the second outing, during which we had a burp with it.

After about 45 minutes, it felt like we ran out of gas (the thing is thirsty, I have noticed). We had about a half tank, or a bit less, remaining so it wasn’t that. It re-fired, but didn’t take much throttle until stalling again. It definately seemed fuel starved. After hitting the primer bulb a couple times, it fired and ran fine for 20 minutes when we reached the launch spot and called it a day. The problem seems resolved. Someone told me that the primer bulbs (new fuel system – tank, lines, connectors, primer bulb) have a plastic? round bead in them and if the bulb falls flat, the bead may basically plug the line and choke of the fuel. Is this so? I am not sure of the position of the primer prior to the squeeze, it could very well have fallen flat, I was operating the boat and wasn’t the one to squeeze it.

Thanks for any advice. I am look forward to exploring your web site and learning more about the hobby,

[The Boat House]

• This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
• This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.

[raglover]

Will do my best to answer with my best guesses. Cool that you have a Barbour, are you in NC? Know they were made in New Bern.

1. 50:1 Tcw3
2. Doubt the blade is causing the vibration. Not sure of severity, but could be “dead range” of motor as it climbs from idle to throttle. My OMC big twins tend to have a flat spot in performance at a specific mid range. I can minimize with tuning carb needles/ensuring timing and carb synchronization is right. Not saying that is it, usually not a bad vibration as much as it is a noticeable sound and shimmy. Beyond that check motor mounts and make sure they are still solid, rubber could be bad,
3. Ebay or free classifieds here for prop
4. Not sure if you are running metal or plastic tank, but I assume it is portable. If plastic make sure it is vented (metal tanks too, but it is built into cap). Did you replace fuel pump diaphragms? If not they probably need to be changed. Finally, I have an old Merc quick silver tank in my whaler that has a “reserve” area in its shape, and if I have it turned wrong direction in the boat, it will drain gas in part under the pick up.

[pmd83]

Thanks. It sounds like 50:1 it is.
Motor mounts are in good shape and tight.
Plastic tank, portable 6 gallon. We did not replace the fuel pump diaphragms. Will look into that. Going to give it another outing soon.

I live near Rochester NY. The first 2 outings were on the Erie Canal. Ready to try the Finger Lakes. I have done some research on Barbour. I know the production numbers were limited out of New Bern by the early 60s. They may have been made to order by then.

[amuller]

Probably not the prop but with all the effort you have been to, I’d get a new one and you will want a spare to carry. Ebay can be good for props. As for how many blades are optimal, that’s an unending discussion like fuel mix ratios. The generic answer is that the fewer blades the more efficient because of lower blade tip losses, but there may be lower vibration with a higher blade count. Have you checked the prop shaft for straightness (dial indicator)? I would check the fuel pump for hard diaphragms, and the fuel lines for inside deterioration. Fuel starvation is bad news for t-strokes.

[Author]

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