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I use white and black paint sticks for filling in depressed lettering. For a mirror finish I use 1500 grit wet-or-dry paper. . . 😀
Well you all talked me in to it. For the top lettering I sprayed a board and let the paint tack up then rolled the letters in the paint. That got about half of them. If I rolled it in something a little softer it may have covered better? Then I tried what modelers call dry brushing. Took a detail brush cut the bristles halfway sprayed some paint on a board let it tack up a little then brush the letters horizontally with the bristles flat. It didn’t matter if you got a little on the silver part it came off pretty easy with the sharp and flat end of a toothpick.
The bottom letters I gently used a point file then finished up with a stick sander.
Nice work guys. I to have found a small brush and no caffeine in the body works. I’ll save the jiggle juice for after when the job is done.
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For those out there without the talent to do this (like me), I found a fellow in England that can reproduce your original serial number plate. When I enquired about an Evinrude 3HP plate he said it would be about $70, less if I needed more than one. It looks from the website that he does beautiful/amazing work, and can take even your most beat up plate, and reproduce it accurately.
I have this link to this company in Texas but have never contacted them.
http://www.alumaphoto-plateco.com/products/vin-tag-replacement.html
I also know someone that may be able to do this and will see him Easter weekend.
I was at his place doing him a favor and he was showing me his tag making stuff.
I had intended to take this tag to him to see if he could reproduce it but I
don’t need one now. Its our first car show of the year and I’ll be displaying
some of my motors. He’s is into "Extreme" motorized bicycles (like 2cyl. 20hp. motors)
that do 100+ no problem. I’m going to have him come over and take a look
at this tag to see what is possible.
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