Row Boat Motor Tank Repair

[kees]

.
looks very good
but….now you still can solder the pin holes
and …you can do it from the inside now
every hole you can repair is a plus
and why not ? it don’t hurt !
make your choice , so far so good ! 😉
.

[Buccaneer]

quote :

tape the inside

couple coats of primer on the outside

then seal inside

Bill, the only flaw I see in your plan would be trying to solder the
lid back on the tank, if it has primer on it.

Prepare to be boarded!

[Buccaneer]

quote kees:

.
looks very good
but….now you still can solder the pin holes
and …you can do it from the inside now
every hole you can repair is a plus
and why not ? it don’t hurt !
make your choice , so far so good ! 😉
.

Kees, Only thing I worry about soldering up all those
pin holes now would be "warping" the tank after I
spent an hour trying to get it all straight and dent free.
It’s not perfect, but the best I could do with the baffles
in my way. I’m debating if I want to put a light coat
of bondo on the back of the tank where the decal will go.

Prepare to be boarded!

[Buccaneer]

quote Lyks2Tinkr:

Solder the tank together. Slosh with MEK or Acetone to make sure it’s clean and then line the tank.
If you prime 1st then clean you stand a good chance of acetone getting on the primer and messing it up. I have experience in the above 🙂

I have some acetone, but I believe the phosphoric acid leaves a coating that promotes
adhesion for paint. Not sure about the "Red Coat Sealer" and phosphoric acid coating
compatibility yet. Perhaps I should just take a rag with a little acetone and wipe
down the inside lightly before I solder the lid on. If I "slosh" it with acetone after
the lid is soldered on, with all the pin holes, I’ll have acetone washing off my
phosphoric coating on the outside, lol. Who said life was easy!
Thanks for all the tips.

Prepare to be boarded!

[Author]

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