Ruddertwin Jugs

[wbeaton]

I think you have a set of "display only" jugs. You will have to find a very good and very patient machinist who can bore a blind bore to less than .010". I agree with Richard that I’m afraid the plating may flake off after machining. Removing the nickel would be best. Or slap it together as a display motor and hang it on a stand.

Wayne
Upper Canada Chapter

uccaomci.com

[Tom]

Consider going back to the place that plated them and see whether they can "reverse plate" the inside of the jugs. You will need to block off the exhaust ports and plug the spark plug holes. They can use one of various solutions and plate it back on to a piece of copper. I don’t know how much damage could be done to the cast iron, though. You would have to discuss that with the plater.

T

[chris-p]

Ah shoot.

Im by no means a cheap guy, but the plating was not cheap!

I have another one to do after this. I may just paint those jugs lol

[pm-t2]

Try to avoid using the revere method to remove plating from any cast iron.

The chemicals and the process itself are not kind to that sort of ferrous iron, and the results can be severe pitting after the strip operation is complete.

The guys who used to do plating for me in Oakville always advised me to glass bead cast iron if it had any old plating left sticking to it for that very reason. The chemicals and the process will also attack the substrate. This is particularly true if there are any rust stains or deposits on the substrate as well. FWIW I followed their instructions on glass beading cast iron prior to nickel plating, I had a few Caille Liberty Twin flywheels done, and they all came out really nice because of the prep work I was told to do ahead of time.

Hope this helps. Another FWIW – I ran into the same problem as you with nickel deposit on cylinder walls when I had a set of Lockwood Chief cylinders renickeled. it was only for the first inch or so of bore at the base of the cylinder, I did not have plate deposits further up the bore at all, at least none that I could detect either through fit & function testing nor measuring with a telescopic gauge.. I removed it just by hand sanding with fine paper. Nickel is relatively soft compared to chrome.

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

[brook-n]

I share the same opinion as Chris on this, I have experienced this myself first hand.
Unfortunately in some cases it might just be easier to start over with another pair
of good used jugs.

Respectfully

[ian]

Boring or honing it out isn’t going to work, unless you are willing to get oversize pistons. It’s almost impossible to bore a hole and not remove material that you didn’t want to. The bore usually has taper and out of round to a small degree, really hard to dial it in perfectly, without taking a cut. I’m not saying it couldn’t be done, but it would be easier to remove the plating by hand, and not remove material that you want to keep. Fine sanding drums and take your time.

[Anonymous]

Would something like this be of any use?
Kirk

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05657994

[chris-p]

Raining out today, so had some time to work inside.

Got the jugs fixed up nice!

I ended up using a 2" non woven flap wheel on the end of a cordless drill. Worked perfectly. Just took off the plating, did not take material off the actual bore. Then ran a hone through quick to give a nice cross hatch, and called it a day. Measures in spec, so this old girl will be able to run again. I don’t like show ponies.

Few more pieces to polish up, I have to re attach the tags and decal to the tank, and rebuild the coil, and she is done.

[fisherman6]

Great to hear that worked out Chris. Did you make it to Lockeman’s today? A QD-10 followed me home.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[chris-p]

No I was supposed to go. There was a group of guys from our Canadian chapter that made the trip down there. Wish I could have made it. Did get some work done however.

[Author]

Posts