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December 23, 2020 at 3:45 pm #225823
I have my grandfather’s 1954 Firestone 7.5 outboard and it was last used ~30 years ago. I recently rebuilt the carb and was able to run the motor. The water pump amazingly still works, however, the lower unit is leaking oil. This outboard has very low hours on it.
I would really like to get this motor fixed and operational for occasional personal use, however, parts availability and my mechanical ability to do this are my primary concern.
I would greatly appreciate any help in locating parts (impeller, lower unit seals/gasket kits, bearings, possibly ignition parts too) for this motor. Any resources for those that do this type of restoration are appreciated too. I live in Akron(home of Firestone Tire!) Ohio.
Thanks in advance!
December 23, 2020 at 3:49 pm #225825It was built by Scott-Atwater and branded Firestone so hopefully that will help a bit.
http://www.oddjobmotors.net/scottatwater.htm
A link to an older post about impellers:
December 23, 2020 at 4:56 pm #225832Try http://laingsoutboards.com/ for parts
December 23, 2020 at 5:55 pm #225837however, the lower unit is leaking oil.
If you’ve run an engine, dripping oil can be from unburnt oil in the exhaust
http://www.omc-boats.org
http://www.aerocraft-boats.orgDecember 26, 2020 at 3:10 am #225983Its hard to seal that gearcase. Pull the 3 screws on the cover plate. That exposes the other 7/16ths nut to remove the gearcase. Note round nut notched is the shift shaft actuator, note position on shaft & remove. Don’t lose. Now the lower will come off. REmove the driveshaft, gears, shaft & impeller. Heat the aluminum around the waterpump housing as it is glued into its home. No prying, something will break. Once the housing is off, you expose the driveshaft seal. The number of the seal is SKF 4912. Now the shift shaft seal is under the aluminum guide pipe. Be careful & wiggle the pipe loose from the housing. There you will find an O-ring . It’s 1:01 am now but I do have the prop shaft seal number somewhere in the shop. After getting all that done take a straight edge against the three threaded holes & check to see if the threads have been pulled out, Major place to leak because it causes a gap. Next get some blood pressure cuff hose & once the lower is ready slide it down over the shift shaft & on the top of the gearcase. Let it extend past the small round opening of the top. When you tighten the cover on it will compress on the opening & make a “home made” extra shift shaft seal.
Any questions ? jeff.50@cox.net. Not as hard to do as thought.
Edit: I made my own gearcase gasket using the housing & a copy machine. Just fit the inside & when installed use a razor knife to cut the outside after it’s on. Don’t use your scanner, it changes the dimensions.- This reply was modified 3 years, 3 months ago by jeff-register.
1 user thanked author for this post.
December 26, 2020 at 3:20 am #225985Another tip,
If your driveshaft is rusty have it braized to fill the gaps but not too hot & bend it. Yes brass is soft but it will live for a long time.
Be sure to use waterproof grease on the top of the shaft splines. None on top though, it will cause downword pressure.- This reply was modified 3 years, 3 months ago by jeff-register.
December 27, 2020 at 3:28 pm #226076Thanks for all the very helpful replies outboarders. Looks like I have a winter project!
December 27, 2020 at 6:21 pm #226108That motor is supposed to use grease in the lower unit, not oil. I wouldn’t expect it to hold oil without leaking. Lubriplate 105 Motor Assembly Grease from NAPA, or John Deere cornhead grease.
December 29, 2020 at 3:13 pm #226279This motor currently has Champion H-10J plugs in it. Is this the correct plug ?
Thanks again for all the help!
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