Other commentary…. I think I now understand how the cam roller works with the throttle. I don’t have a indicator band on the handle so hard to know “where” start is supposed to be, but I did look thru a book I bought of “cheap outboards” which has a good diagram/explanation of this…. currently by the time the roller hits the indicator the throttle plate inside the carb has already moved a bit, and not the book explanation of that the roller should be at indicator when the slack in the linkage just starts to turn the carb plate open.

So, sounds like the carb is opening a little sooner than expected at the indicator, any ideas how this would make the motor behave at this timing? Would adjusting it back some make it idle even better?

• This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by andreaskc.

Yes, both coils look pretty new and identical. Almost all the wiring inside looks new… except the one fabric covered wire from one of the coils.

The spark plug wires do “look” oldish…. whatever that means… they have a bunch of nicks on them, no real writing of any kind, and oxidized. I tend to not want to replace something especially if expect it to be working…. I don’t know that I want to just go replacing coils/condensers/etc given that they all look new and don’t know they are actually broke…. althou maybe the plug wires and one coil wire that look 60 years old are due for updating?

No I don’t have an OMC specific flywheel puller, thought I could retrofit one of my pullers to bolt into the three bolts and pull against the center flywheel bolt…. the “old outboard” book I have talks about pulling up on the flywheel with hand while tapping on center puller applying some pressure on it. Book has some OMC/Evinrude service bulletins in it with 60s style helpful pictures along with tips on handling the flywheel key on reinstall.

On the throttle cam, the way you explained it is what I now understand, there were some early comments I saw about it having to do something with where “start” is on the handle. Sounds like it currently is running a bit rich off idle, not by much but is some. I can see that the butterfly shaft does start turning before the mark bisects the roller.

Hard to get good pictures of some of the dark areas with the phone… the bite out of the spark plug wire does look pretty decent where it rubs and yes it looks difficult to prevent it from rubbing… there doesn’t seem to be much clearance where it needs to come out of the plate at an angle and make the turn going down at WOT. The little plastic wire covers crosbyman has in his attachments look pretty effective thou?

In other thoughts, checking the bleeder looks like I need to pull the entire carb off…there a gasket around this that will need replacing or carefully pulling can be reused? I suspicion looking at this….

Had to deal with a few other projects, but back at this one.

I’ve pulled the flywheel, it has one newer German coil. Meter reads out 1.5/6.5k and is the top cylinder coil which has no problems.The other coil has an outlined M on it, looks older, fabric sheathed wires, no obvious cracks. It tests out 1.5 on primary and secondary 9/10 times doesn’t register but I can scratch on the wire pin and very inconsistently get a read out of 3.5k.

I did buy 2 new coils (cdi brand 183-4477) and used 1 to replace the bad coil and the new coil doesn’t spark. Both New cdi coils read out with 1.5/8.3k with multimeter so it seems it should work? I swapped the top/bottom coils and the German coil which was on top now successfully fires the bottom plug. I bought 2 just in case 1 was bad so I’ll try the other new cdi coil tomorrow. Skeptical thou? The laminations are definitely shorter, the leg going thru the windings is smaller. Seems like others have success with this model coil thou? Am I missing something?