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Mumbles, you’re correct, the one vane is about 1/32″ shy of the side of the liner.
It may have been Joe CB that put a liner in his Scott using a thin SS strip.
Not sure what other options would be.
Other’s may have got their Honda impeller to work without messing with
the liner……. God Bless Them, lol.I did a test of the impeller anyway, and did get it to prime, but the pump darn
near had to be at water level. It would loose prime when the suction tube
was still 6″ under water.
The video shows my testing.The homemade drive “test” shaft doesn’t look great, but it worked good for
the test.Back to the drawing board.
https://youtu.be/MTqifV5Alzo
Prepare to be boarded!
I made a liner for the pump housing today so the Honda impeller would fit tighter.
I found a thin wall brass tube affair that I believe came out of an old
garden sprayer. It just happened to be the same OD, or darn near,
as the SS pump liner OD. After I cut off a piece of it “to height”,
I had to cut about 3/16″ chunk on one end for the brass ring
to drop inside the SS liner. Lots of measuring, filing, sanding,
and using a Dremel with a rotary burr to cut out the discharge
hole in the liner, I glued the brass liner in place with “Seal All”,
coating both surface lightly, waiting a minute per instructions,
and darn near didn’t get it back in the pump housing all the way.
I had to use the vise for the last 1/8″ down as the glue was fighting
me. Cure time should be about over, so I may go out and put the
pump back together using my dummy drive shaft again, and see if it pumps.
The Honda impeller “slack vane” now touches the side of the brass liner.
The brass I used was .035 thick, hence I reduced the inside diameter
of the pump housing by .070.
Discharge hole in the brass liner drilled and routed out to fit.
I got lucky with the seam in the liner!
Wish me luck.
Prepare to be boarded!
“Better”, but no cigar yet. After the brass liner was installed, the pump will now take
suction at normal operating level above water, but only at high speed on the drill.
The drill tops out at 2500 rpms. Not sure what “Start” position rpms would be on this
motor, but presume less than 1000 rpms.There is a wear circle in the top plate and bottom of the liner, the top being worse,
where the center hub of the impeller rides. Note at high speed operation on my video, water
blows out the hole on the top plate where the driveshaft goes thru. Not sure
what’s happening on the bottom side. Is this indicative of my poor pump performance?
I could make a new top plate, out of brass, if it’s worth my effort???
I don’t think the bolt holes line up if I turn the top plate over, but will re-check.Any other ideas or thoughts welcomed.
BTW, the driveshaft has two flats on top of the driveshaft to drive the impellers,
but there’s also two flats towards the bottom of the driveshaft. Was the same shaft
used on other models with the pump down low?
I don’t think there’s a way to mount the pump down low though on this Bailer model.
Prepare to be boarded!
You’re on the right track here but would it be feasible to make and install a second liner, out of the same material you used for the first one? I’m thinking that would give the vanes firmer contact with the liner lessening the chances of them being bent away from the liner because of resistance to the water. Your brass liner will probably last longer than the aluminum alloy used in OMC pumps.
This photo is all I could find of an OMC impeller in its housing and the vanes have good contact all around. Even the one that’s bent backwards.
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