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Well the flywheel will probably survive with some sanding. With the flywheel upside down on the table….place a typical screwdriver against the magnets. It should stick firmly. A simple test of the magnets.
I hope you did not use the Chinese coils. Sometimes they are OK but I’ve found that they many times are weaker than the genuine OMC coils or CDI brand coils. Takes a good yank of the rope to get them to fire strong.
You certainly still have issues; hard to diagnose remotely . Have you looked at the crankcase seals? Top and bottom?
EDIT: I just watched your video. The wobble is pretty typical; not your issue. And I see those genuine OMC coils too…..the search goes on! Those carburetor images that Jacques posted are important. The idle circuit may be plugged; you can revisit the carburetor at some point.
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coils must aling with the base. run your fingernail up and own it must not snag.
that done if you have no spark assuming notoing wrong magnet wise then coil or condensre are suspect.
did use measure/test/ replacethe condensers ??
what ohms do you see on both lower and upper coil s measure secondary Ohms values to compare from boot clip to engine frame frame and report findings. Some coils have 9 kohms some have 4 kohms… if need be install similar coils or swap parts to see if the problem follows the parts . CLEAN CLEAN the points
What compression numbers do you have top and bottom…report findings ! your engine should idle fine ans start at START . is your cam adjusted with the cam follower on the car so it sits on the mark at START
got the bible ?? all you need to know !
download and store locally or print localy and bind
https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf
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btw proper idling gets fuel fed up the carb via the side channel to the the top drip chamber (3 small holes) if the throttle is open to much …… crankcase suction will be shared betwenn the HS fuel circuit and the LS circuit which may no tbe favorable to idle . At slow idle the trotlle plate should be closed and fuel come from the top of the carb not the center HS post. See manual for operation and adjustments .
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Hmmm, if the mag plate is being dragged back to idle, you may have a few issues going on.
First, someone may have removed the friction cup and spring from underneath the tiller grip.
Second, Perhaps you have not properly aligned the coils on the mag plate, so they are rubbing on the flywheel magnets
Thirs, that mag plate seems kind of loose/jumping around a bit. This might create excess sideways slop allowing the coils to hit the flywheel, point gap will be erratic as well.
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YOu won’t know until you boat test it, but I’ve not heard of an evinrude “losing power” because of a leaky pressure tank. It may get starved for fuel and quit on you, but they usually don’t keep running and perform like a lesser motor because there’s pressure escaping.
FWIW I don’t think you’ve ruined your flywheel, but do get the coil alignment taken care of. in another FWIW, I’ve never used on of those coil setting rings myself, because I don’t have one. I do have an eye and a feel for setting up things without tools and getting it so close that normally the engines always run without having to fine tune things. If the ring isn’t working for you, start going by feel and shift your coil positions so they ain’t rubbing on the flywheel and still give your ignition energy when it needs it.
I have a ’57 Evinrude Fastwin as well. It was in use when I got it but they said it was “getting tired” and was losing power. They’re description of the issues sounded like it was only running on one cylinder. As soon as I got the motor, I could tell that the upper crankshaft oil seal was done. A telltale oil and sludge buildup on the port side of the exhaust housing gave it away. With a new oil seal installed, the mag plate replaced because the old one was a bit sloppy (sound familiar?) and the fuel system gone through, it is now one of my most dependable classic outboards and I put a considerable amount of hours on it last summer on Lake St. Clair.
So yeah, look into that magneto plate, it shouldn’t be wobbling around, it needs to be stable when it pivots…otherwise your points timing and coil alignment are gonna be nearly impossible to set correctly.
Hope this helps.
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PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
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