Home › Forum › Ask A Member › SOLVED – 1957 RDE-19 35hp. Belly pan / exhaust cover.
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JACQUES.
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August 5, 2026 at 6:32 pm #325774
Update: Aug 5th, 2026
SUCCESS
I let it soak for almost two weeks straight.
It finally had soaked into the cylinder.Hit it with heat, and put a breaker bar on the flywheel and just gently rocked it back and forth.
At first, it moved just about half an inch.
More heat. More oil. More gentle rocking and bam. They are free! They look decent too!
Rings from the ports looked ok.
My question is this:
Now I get to check compression.
But the cylinder head, bypass covers and exhaust cover are off, and will need new gaskets for those before reassembling and being able to check compression.Is there ANYTHING I should do now, while it’s apart? Is it worth cracking the case now that the cylinders appear good?
August 5, 2026 at 9:09 pm #325776You have gone this far, and if it were me I would split the cases and make sure all good there and replace what isn’t.
August 5, 2026 at 10:09 pm #325781If you want a base line compression reading, you would only need to reinstall the cylinder head and if the original gasket is in one piece, I would just use that and not waste a new one.
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August 7, 2026 at 9:56 am #325850I am still concerned about just what it was/is that locked this engine up so hard. You don’t see any evidence of problems when looking into the exhaust/intake ports? Was it rusted? Whatever was/is wrong seems like more than the usual rusted rings/cylinder syndrome. I fear that attempting to run the engine now may further damage it. I guess if it were mine, I would remove the intake manifold and try to have a peek inside the crankcase(s), perhaps you will see evidence or rust or mechanical damage. Looking through the ports, were the rings rusted/stuck in place?
This has been a long thread so forgive me if I don’t remember all the details. Did you ever drain/inspect the gear lube, or remove the gearcase to see if it was the problem binding up the powerhead?
At this point, only you can make the decision on what to do next. If you decide to put it back together and run it, be very careful. Run the engine for awhile at lower RPM, keep a sharp ear open for strange noises. I just don’t want the powerhead to be destroyed if something more is wrong, then it decides to grenade while out on the water.
August 7, 2026 at 1:44 pm #325865I am still concerned about just what it was/is that locked this engine up so hard. You don’t see any evidence of problems when looking into the exhaust/intake ports? Was it rusted? Whatever was/is wrong seems like more than the usual rusted rings/cylinder syndrome. I fear that attempting to run the engine now may further damage it. I guess if it were mine, I would remove the intake manifold and try to have a peek inside the crankcase(s), perhaps you will see evidence or rust or mechanical damage. Looking through the ports, were the rings rusted/stuck in place?
This has been a long thread so forgive me if I don’t remember all the details. Did you ever drain/inspect the gear lube, or remove the gearcase to see if it was the problem binding up the powerhead?
At this point, only you can make the decision on what to do next. If you decide to put it back together and run it, be very careful. Run the engine for awhile at lower RPM, keep a sharp ear open for strange noises. I just don’t want the powerhead to be destroyed if something more is wrong, then it decides to grenade while out on the water.
Hi there!
Lower gear case is off. There was about a shot glass of water that came out before the fear oil – which besides the water, looked great. The lower spins freely and seems good.I took off the exhaust cover and bypass cover during the process – and there was very light rust haze in the cylinders. When it finally freed, the oil on top of the cylinders was rust coloured. I think it may have been simple rust haze sticking them, and the fact that the one piston stopped TDC made it very hard to get movement.
At this point I am going to remove the power head and pull the pistons and do a bore / gauge check. I’m just researching as best as I can before I do that – as this is as far as I’ve gone into any small engine.
August 7, 2026 at 5:57 pm #325876I am still concerned about just what it was/is that locked this engine up so hard. You don’t see any evidence of problems when looking into the exhaust/intake ports? Was it rusted? Whatever was/is wrong seems like more than the usual rusted rings/cylinder syndrome. I fear that attempting to run the engine now may further damage it. I guess if it were mine, I would remove the intake manifold and try to have a peek inside the crankcase(s), perhaps you will see evidence or rust or mechanical damage. Looking through the ports, were the rings rusted/stuck in place?
This has been a long thread so forgive me if I don’t remember all the details. Did you ever drain/inspect the gear lube, or remove the gearcase to see if it was the problem binding up the powerhead?
At this point, only you can make the decision on what to do next. If you decide to put it back together and run it, be very careful. Run the engine for awhile at lower RPM, keep a sharp ear open for strange noises. I just don’t want the powerhead to be destroyed if something more is wrong, then it decides to grenade while out on the water.
Hi there!
Lower gear case is off. There was about a shot glass of water that came out before the fear oil – which besides the water, looked great. The lower spins freely and seems good.I took off the exhaust cover and bypass cover during the process – and there was very light rust haze in the cylinders. When it finally freed, the oil on top of the cylinders was rust coloured. I think it may have been simple rust haze sticking them, and the fact that the one piston stopped TDC made it very hard to get movement.
At this point I am going to remove the power head and pull the pistons and do a bore / gauge check. I’m just researching as best as I can before I do that – as this is as far as I’ve gone into any small engine.
Well, if all you saw was some rust, then it may be worth cleaning up the cylinders with a scotch brite pad, putting the covers back on and starting it up. Like you say, the pistons being stuck all the way up and down may have hampered your progress. Looking in the exhaust ports, do the rings look free, or do they appear to be rusted in place?
I hesitate to advise pulling this thing all apart, especially if you have not had past experience.
August 8, 2026 at 10:12 am #325912Pretty sure those will be stuck. Push on them with a popsicle stick or something similar to check for movement. Stuck rings will yield low compression.
August 8, 2026 at 1:02 pm #325917Pretty sure those will be stuck. Push on them with a popsicle stick or something similar to check for movement. Stuck rings will yield low compression.
Well I don’t see any movement on the rings whatsoever. They look good (not rusted on the surface) but there is no movement that I can detect.
August 8, 2026 at 7:17 pm #325942keep soaking
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