Home Forum Ask A Member 1958 Mercury mark 10

Viewing 7 posts - 31 through 37 (of 37 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #274318
    mark weaver
    Participant

      What??

      #274326
      wedgie
      Participant

        I think Jeff deleted his post. He’s not suggesting to delete your post. Jeff has a lot of knowledge re the electrical on these motors.

         

        1 user thanked author for this post.
        #274327
        mark weaver
        Participant

          Oh, I see.

          #275404
          Doug Wilson
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            I have had 2 WG7 Wizards and a KF7 mercury that all did that. Replaced upper and lower crank shaft seals and they are all running real well now. previous owner of one of the Wizards said he thought reeds were shot. found the upper seal on that one had been replaced but put in upside down.  Would be willing to bet crank shaft seals are the issue.

            Doug

            Doug

            how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
            turned off?

            #275405
            jeff-register
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              I agree with Dave B. If you have a 1958 lower seal it’s worn out, Mercury aimed the bottom seal lip down so it could release extra fuel in the crankcase. I think also your condensors are bad too. I also had problems with a 20hp Mercury magneto.  I replaced everything, points, condensors (capacitors) & coils & it still ran as you describe. Guess what I found. I ran a bonding, grounding wire from the magneto plate to the block & it purred. I had cleaned the magneto plate & block matching surface before hand clean enough to eat off with s very light film of grease & it was enough to get a bad connection between the two. My points had turned gold from the heat of a current reverse! Please try running a jumper from the magneto to the block for testing. Use a OHM meter to measure resistance between the two.

              Also Replace the crankshaft seals top & bottom or you may suck water into the lower crankcase & destroy the lower rotating assembly please.

              You need an instrument Merc o Tronic to load test those capacitors (condensers) I’ll bet they are bad. Test the new ones too. I was helping a friend building a big block GMC pick up  & he bought rebuilt windshield motor that didn’t function. We found a nonconnected wire inside the wiper motor. I ALWAYS bench test new parts before installing. Spend some time & you will be rewarded!!

              Good Luck

              #275406
              jeff-register
              Participant

                US Member - 2 Years

                Mark,

                I just deleted my post because it was already covered. I did some digging on capacitors & found some good data.

                I ordered some Vishay brand capacitors from a electronics supply house. I also talked to a factory rep at the time & he said magneyos are hard on caps. He suggested an MKP=1839 for use. it is a .33 uf \15%\850volt capacitor for use. These capacitors are light years better than factory capacitors & will “live” in a magneto forever. They make many different uf sizes & order from an on-line electronics mail order supply house. You need  a radial design also with leads coming out on either end to fit in your old capacitor case to look stock too.. Drill a small hole in the blank end then solder to the case & add the stock cap wire from the old junk cap & glue in place. Some capacitors are polorised, that is have a positive & negative symble C-I & nonpolarised I-I .  You need nonpolrized type caps. Go to antiqueradioforums view topic-pleasehelpwill this capacitor work in a magneto? For more data. Hope this helps!

                P.S. shipping is expensive so order a few extras, it costs the same Also try Nework electronics.com for mail order.

                #275407
                jeff-register
                Participant

                  US Member - 2 Years

                  Looked on the web under Nework electronics under MKP 1839433084HQ Nework part # 73R9945 & this cap model ranges from .1uf to 3.3uf with 850 volt rating & metaliszed. HQ must be part of the part number, means high quality & also shows factory spec sheet. Vishay has changed part numbers too.

                  Get crankshaft seals from Joe Pool at Ferguson Marine on the web, VERY nice guy to deal with,

                  Look up MKP 1839hq on nework page.They show 10 different value caps!!

                Viewing 7 posts - 31 through 37 (of 37 total)
                • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.