Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 9.9 Johnson Carb Question
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outbdnut2.
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June 21, 2017 at 1:05 am #60030
1 Sorry, but I don’t believe the bearing comes with either kit
2 The easiest way to remove those lead shots is to drill through it with a tiny bit, then thread a screw into the shot and pull it out. I have never had any luck with the "pry it out with a knife method", but give it a try…
3 Anything is possible, but I would just fork over the dough and use the OEM lead shot. They do install easily with a little hammer and flat punch.
I wish I had a carb apart in front of me so I could better understand/communicate with you…I guess if the glop was past the bearing toward the mixing pocket, then yes, it may have been interfering with fuel flow. As for knowing if the bearing is in place, I guess I would just use a home made pick tool like those that have been described, and attempt to remove the old one.
But, I guess, before doing any of this, I thought you were going to try a different carb…..Again, if the engine idles OK with a different carb, you/we will fee more confident in investing in the lead shots/bearing to repair your carb properly….Trying a different carb will only take an hour or so, and cost nothing…June 21, 2017 at 3:00 am #60037Good thought – I should take the time to pull a carb off one of my five 15s and see if that works – will save a lot of work on the 9.9s carb if the swap points me in another direction. The biggest nuisance in pulling a carb is putting the recoil back on, but I have found that goes much easier if I pop the flywheel first for more room to work. I have a 15 that just came back from loan to a friend that needs the recoil removed and fixed anyway….and it idles perfect for him on a week-long fishing trip. I’d like to avoid removing that lead shot if I can.
DaveJune 21, 2017 at 3:22 am #60038Hi Dave, the OMC complete carb kit pn 0398453 does come with a needle bearing. I recently did 2 carbs with this OMC kit,a ’76 15 hp and a ’77 9.9. Both idle nice now. I don’t know if the Sierra kit comes with a needle bearing or not.You might as well get the OMC kit that has the bearing, cause the bearing by itself is around $11.
I made a hooked rod out of some stiff stainless wire to remove the old bearing. Mumbles used a dental pick,which i didn’t have. Make the hook real small to get through the bearing and pull it out. It may slip out of the bearing and may take several tries to get it out.
A way to tell if the bearing is in there is to measure the distance on the needle down to the step on the needle where the bearing fits. Then carefully measure and feel down the side into the hole with a stiff wire the same distance and see if you hit the bearing. Be careful and gentle so that you don’t gouge the surface down in there.
It may be of some help to get the carb kit ,look at the bearing ,fit it on the needle to see what the situation is down in there, kinda visualize what you can’t see.
When i got my ’76 9.9 i found NGK spark plugs in there.I figured the wrong plugs were in there,not being Champions or AC. I was just getting into outboards and thought how odd it was to have NGK plugs in a USA built outboard. I have had good luck with the B7HS ever since. Use B6HS if you will be trolling and idling a lot. I have not tried them yet though.
Fleetwin has the right idea,find a good carb to swap and see if it runs better.That would help isolate the issues you have been having. I have never pried out the lead shot,never had the need to ,but i could be missing an important step. I do have a couple on hand,just in case.
I know this may sound a bit strange, but i like the challenge(s) of my 1976 9.9, i have done quite a bit of work on it. I am confidant enough that it is going to Canada this summer as my back up to my 25 HP.
Keep posting and letting us know how you are doing.
Jim PSB"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonJune 21, 2017 at 3:27 am #60039If you look on Marine Engine and click on the photo of carb kit pn 0398453, you can see the needle bearing included in the BRP omc kit. They have it sitting on the carb to manifold gasket so you can see it on a darker background.
"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonJune 21, 2017 at 11:16 am #60048YES! I do see that bearing in the carb kit 398453! Don’t know if it comes with the latest part number though….
I should order a few of those kits from ME.com
Try that carb from your buddy’s engine first before spending the dough and time on the original carb….June 21, 2017 at 11:42 am #60052One thing I did when pulling the recoil was kept a nut on hand that fits the bottom of the recoil bolt. I would put that nut on it while its out of engine keeps everything together not letting spring pop out. I would also use just a pull rope to start engine I was working on once it was running properly put the recoil back on as last step.
Hope that helps,
JoeJune 21, 2017 at 3:20 pm #60071I saw that bearing in the carb kit photo but with it sitting on the gasket, I wasn’t sure if that’s what it was – Thanks for clarifying. I’ll order the kit now – as a minimum, I know I need the welch plug I pulled out, and will now pull the bearing too now that I understand what/where/how, etc. of it. Meanwhile, I’ll borrow a carb from a 15 and try it.
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A couple of you recently mentioned the NGK plugs. I’ve got BZ7HS plugs in this one already, and have tried BZ7HS-10s I borrowed form a well-idling 15. I fixed several issues on another 9.9 a couple years ago and replacing the Champions with NGK plugs was like magic making it idle perfect, so I’m a believer.
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Yes – I always put a nut on the bottom of those recoils when I pull them – learned that fast first time I pulled one!
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An observation while sticking a wire through the holes below the welch plug: When the throttle plate is all the way shut, only one of the three idle holes into the side of the carb throat is downstream of the throttle plate, so the other two are not in use. Is this enough? or is something worn on the throttle plate where at least two holes should be feeding at closed throttle plate? The center hole is almost directly under the closed throttle plate actually being partially blocked by the edge of the plate.
DaveJune 21, 2017 at 4:09 pm #60078I am not familiar with the B Z 7HS. i was told to use B7HS.
"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie RobertsonJune 21, 2017 at 5:50 pm #60085quote pugetsoundboater:I am not familiar with the B Z 7HS. i was told to use B7HS.The Z means it has an "Inductive Resistor" – to block ignition noise from radios. It does the job without soaking up spark energy like a resistor does. I have these in three of my 15 HP Johnsons (1989-1991) and they work fine, great idle.
Dave
June 21, 2017 at 9:28 pm #60094The 74-75-76 head have issues if low speed is desirable. The later heads are lower compression, have a charge deflector to protect the plug from fuel spray. I just bought a 89 head for my 76 to improve low speed. Those heads do not have that cooling jacket around the plug like past years. I will have to mod the cowl to clear the thermostat though..
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