April 20, 2021 at 2:49 pm #236711
Bus missing. Was going to try Blue Sea Dual 2303 150 amp 4 post, or 2701 5 post, but old hand at marine shop said check this site. There is a 4 wire cable from the console, and a 3 wire cable from the motor. Since 2 from the console go to the solenoid, just 5 into bus, per diagram on box lid.
Also could use a motor cable for a 1957 18 hp Evinrude Fast Twin, or specifics on substitution.. Intended 3 wire cable, bushing, maybe Anderson type connector next to motor.
Topics: 49April 20, 2021 at 6:29 pm #236714
May I ask about the bus? is it a terminal junction? or??
US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 152April 28, 2021 at 1:10 pm #237316
I would use an Anderson connector for the main starter circuit. Maybe the smallest (50 amp) ones would do given the short term usage. For the control wiring you could likely use a trailer-type connector successfully. Garden tractor battery with handle…..April 28, 2021 at 5:26 pm #237330
I was not sure, maybe combined. Here is a photo of the inside of the starter box lid. Red choke lead bridges, yellow from motor appears to be a standby, blue a ground? Brown from console a ground, though 10 ga?? Rest go to solenoid.
You must be logged in to access attached files.April 28, 2021 at 5:38 pm #237333
I have the external motor harmess from the 35 Lark, but not the 18 hp Fasttwin. Looks like will run new red and black primaries from 18 hp starter and ground, through new holes next to exisiting receptacle, at bottom of motor, with bushing and Anderson type connector. Still have to find choke solenoid to run that lead as well, cable as much as possible. Here is a shot of the electric starter lid, which is for the 35. Looks like will not need the bus for the 18, since choke lead only thing not going through solenoid. You did not post a profile, nor did I, since I have nothing to put down, except that I am a green ass. What is your experience?
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US Member - 1 Year
Topics: 152April 28, 2021 at 5:57 pm #237335
Some Bid Twins have a generator, and some do not. As far as I know none of the 18 hp motors had generators and OMC was a bit tardy in adopting flywheel alternators. My opinion: If you don’t have a generator and need a box for the regulator, you don’t need the electrical junction box at all. Just put a solenoid under the cowling somewhere. Riding lawn mower solenoid will work. Then all you need are the two battery cables, a starting wire (to activate starter solenoid) and a choke wire for the choke solenoid. And, maybe, wires for a kill switch (for safety). If you don’t have an electric choke you might want to put a starter button on the motor for convenient starting while using the manual choke. Fuse appropriately with inline fuses. Of course, if you want authenticity that’s another story.
US Member - 2 Years
Topics: 5April 29, 2021 at 7:33 am #237371
The 35 Lark starter box is good, and I got the schematic for the 18 hp from NYmarine.ca. Looks like the choke lead is the only thing not going to the solenoid for the 18, and solenoid part # for 35 and 18 are the same. Just need to deal with lack of exterior harness for the 18.
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