Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Elto RUDDER TWIN QUESTIONS
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Tubs.
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August 10, 2026 at 10:24 am #326048
Greetings, I picked up one of my favorite motors yesterday for a great price! I am not really all that familiar with working on them and I know that it seized up and I’m working on getting that patiently unseized. I have a few questions on that perhaps somebody could help me with. There is no Elto badge on the tank so where do I find the serial number and model? Does anyone recognize this model? Also, what is the horsepower? After I remove the flywheel, is there something special I should do first on the timer box? I seem to remember seeing something on an old post about making sure something is done first to avoid damaging it. I have viewed some of Tubbs videos on YouTube, but was wondering if there was something else out there that help would help me work on it? I love the challenge of working on this and if I just can’t get it unstuck then I’ll turn it into a cleaned up man cave display proudly!
August 10, 2026 at 10:31 am #326053More rudder, twin pictures,
August 10, 2026 at 10:44 am #326059To my knowledge, the serial number is only found on that tag attached to the tank.
Looking at this motor, it bears an uncanny resemblance to a Model C Service twin. They are affectionately called “Ruddertwins”
Look in the timer housing, under the cover, look at the bushing, is it silvery metal or brass? There was a year where they changed and I don’t remember if these had that update. Pray for brass, LOL
Remove the flywheel then remove the timer housing completely.
To unstick, if it decides to let you do that, lay it face down and remove the exhaust. This will expose the piston(s) thru the exhaust ports. Mix up some ATF and Acetone 50/50 and pour in those openings….Let it sit…. You can apply heat to the cylinders all around the piston area, once the carb is removed… heat it up good, then let it cool. Gently apply rotating force using the flywheel, over time it should move… once you see the ATF/Acetone mix disappear, that will mean it is get in where it needs to, add more mix and heat it again…… slow process, time is your friend…The heating/ cooling cycles are the key here.
And patienceKeep us posted.
Richard
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com1 user thanked author for this post.
August 10, 2026 at 11:43 am #326063You have the hollow rudder so that puts your motor after 1924. Yours has the single “carburetor” mixer so I’m thinking prior to 1927, as my Model J is 1927 and has the twin mixer. So my guess is 1925 – 26. Someone who knows better will chime in with corresponding model designation.
And be gently with the timer… remove and open it up, examine and clean. Let us know what you find. Hopefully not crumbled pot metal bushing.
Joe B
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August 10, 2026 at 1:10 pm #326069Thanks everyone for the input!Assuming it does have pot metal bushings in the timer, are there any appropriate replacements available? Can brass bushingbe substituted if they can be found? As far as the Elto tag on the gas tank, I see no place for rivets were put in to hold. It only has a faded decal on the back of the tank.
August 10, 2026 at 1:41 pm #326070Slow down … one thing at a time, take a look inside first. If needed , here is some info
Joe B
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August 10, 2026 at 2:01 pm #326074The holes are clearly visible on the front of the tank in your photo…. But like Joe said…slow down or you may break something…lol
As for bushings, Member Dustin Green has had them made, I have a few spares so we can get you one IF you actually need it…
Pictures…please on your timer housing..
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com1 user thanked author for this post.
August 10, 2026 at 10:59 pm #326111As others have stated, most likely a model “C” with the rounded-corner tank, single poppet valve carb, and the starter knob on a flat flywheel.
Unfortunately, Elto did not start stamping serial numbers into a second location on the motor until 1927-ish when they started building the first Speedsters. Its possible that the model J and K motors have the serial numbers stamped into the crankcase, but I’m not aware of anything earlier having been ID’d that way at the factory.
Ruddertwins were supplied with brass timer bushings on the 1921-26 motors. The part number changed for the 1927 service twins so that may be where they started using zinc timer bearing (the parts list calls it a timer bearing) and those are the ones to be wary of, as they almost always need to be replaced if they are still the original part that was installed at the factory. Thats why the most common Elto timers that usually need new timer bearings are on the model J and K twins as well as the 1928-29 Speedsters and 1929-30 Elto Lightweight folders, as those models typically were fitted with the zinc part as original equipment.
Hope this helps.
Besdt,
PM T2He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
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August 11, 2026 at 11:18 am #326130Thanks again everyone for the input. It’s been very valuable. I will post some pictures of what I find when I finally get the flywheel off. It’s seized very good and I’ve been patiently lubricating and heating and doing hammer blows on the flywheel nut avoiding messing up the threads. Any other tips and information is always appreciated! You guys make the hobby fun.
August 11, 2026 at 10:34 pm #326157
While it’s a common practice, it’s not the best approach. Striking a loose flywheel will end up damaging the threads on both the crankshaft and the nut. Making this tool will avoid that. If you don’t weld you can just jam the 2 nuts together. If you’re not having any luck, strike down, around the outer edge of the flywheel, in several places, before striking the bolt. Video Link – https://youtu.be/RWgE9XiIBnk?si=UaruMPOYuJD5Ssh7
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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