Evinrude Lightwin 3 3806A

[crosbyman]

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Rebuilding_fuelpump.htm

the most critical issue is putting all the layers back in place … to keep springs and small mushroom pads from flying out of view I just put a dab of crazy glue on the bottom and top of the springs to glue the springs on their base mounting nipples

This keeps the springs vertical and solid same goes for the mushrooms mounted on the springs .. .they stay put 🙂

the rest is orientation before messing with a pump scribe or scratch the side . all parts must line up with scratches or marker track unless you venture to reorient some parts

read this document a few times to understand it correctly and check some utubes …. then read it again 🙂

p.s. the nipples can be reoriented but as they say practice makes perfect .

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Mumbles]

Hey Crosby, I noticed the pumps don’t pass the suck/blow test but that might be because the mounting screws aren’t in them and they are leaking out the sides. Have you tried the test with some small bolts in them?

If these pumps are anything like OMC pumps, they can be taken apart and the fuel fittings can be clocked in any position you want. As soon as I get some clean bench area, I want to take one apart and see what’s inside it. And yes, the camera will be nearby!

[crosbyman]

Mumbles… you know that possibility never dawn on me… yet I have had pumps (in hand) that have passed the suck/blown test with flying colours without any extra bolts

In any event I am not panicking or stripping my new $6 pumps apart yet . I’ll install them and test in real life when ice is out .

one less thing to worry about ! . thanks I,ll try with some bolts to close them up asap

…currently loaded up cleaning up, repairing, room painting a 2 story duplex & estate I am saddled with.

My 92 year aunt did not leave me any motors 🙂

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Dana Watkins]

As I have said above I need a fuel pump for this Evinrude 3 HP 3806A. I do not want to source a used one and then probably have to rebuild it (as several have pointed out they are not simple to rebuild). Nor do I want to spend around $130 for a new one. I want to try a much cheaper knockoff, but I can’t find anywhere online the correct fuel pump.
By my understanding the original part is # #381815, replaced by #386833, then replaced by #388684. As I say I can’t find a replacement for any of these three. I have found a replacement for #386834 and #388685. I guess my question is does anyone think #386834 would be a workable substitute for #386833, or would #388685 be ok for #388684?
Any suggestions to figure this out would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Mumbles]

Any of the small square pumps found on Ebay, Amazon, or elsewhere will work on your motor. Even a pump off a large motor will work if it has room to fit and a rearward facing pulse port.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Fuel-Pump-for-Johnson-Evinrude-outboard-6HP-8HP-395091-397839-391638-18-7350/253177052489?hash=item3af2873d49:g:IpQAAOSwuI9gOG6Y

[crosbyman]

look around lots of them have free shipping….but come by snail mail otherwise try amazon

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Dana Watkins]

I am putting new points in this motor now and gapping them to .020. The flywheel has two identical timing marks, opposite each other on the flywheel. One mark is not larger than the other. Question: which mark is for cylinder #1, and which mark for cylinder #2? Or does it matter not? Also, is the top cylinder on the motor #1 and the bottom cylinder #2? Or is it the opposite?
Thanks

[fleetwin]

OK, well the top cylinder is #1, bottom is #2.
Not sure which flywheel mark is for which cylinder though, doesn’t really matter…Wont run if somehow you get the firing order mixed up! You mention you are going to just gap the points to .020″ on the high side of the cam, so the timing marks are not going to be used. Just be sure you don’t swap the coil primary leads to the wrong points though.
In order to set the point timing “exactly”, you would need a special timing tool that fits over the crank, so you can set the points precisely with an ohm meter…
But, once you have the engine running, you can use a timing light to “check your work”. With the timing light connected to cylinder number one, point it towards the two hash marks on the mag plate…Hopefully, the single timing mark on the flywheel will fall in between the two hash marks on the mag plate… Repeat this process with cylinder #2.
One final note, if you are using new sets of points, you may want to set the gap to .022″ on the high side of the cam, to account for initial rubbing block wear…

[Dana Watkins]

fleetwin, thanks for all that. Yesterday I gapped a new set of points (two sets of course) to .022. The motor started in a barrel on the first pull, and runs smooth at high and low speeds. I am using a 24-1 non-ethanol mix, which I suppose is why there is a fair amount of blue smoke. I don’t want to look like a smoke bomb when I get out on the pond, so I am going to be thinking about a different mix, maybe like 32-1 or 40-1. Even though the motor is running good, when I get a chance I am going to fine tune the timing using an ohm meter as is explained in “1953-1967 Evinrude 3HP Litetwin Tune Up Project Ignition System Tune-Up” on the Outboard Boat Motor Repair website. After I run it some on the water I will post here the things I did and parts I bought to get the motor going good. I didn’t do a lot but there were some things like a load test for the coils and a pressure test for the gear unit which I felt were important and I’m glad I did them. Thanks again, fleetwin. You have been a great help.

[dave-bernard]

there will always be a lot of smoke when in the barrel. when on the water will be less noticeable

[Author]

Posts