Help needed pulling driveshaft seal

[theodore]

quote Richard A. White:

Not sure of the part number, but i got lucky, the part that Frank used and had broken on him, I did a search on Ebay and found one…no hesitation on buying it…..I can look for the part number this evening…

I wonder if you could buy some sort of "hardened" "all thread" with those razor sharp edges? Cut into short sections, grind the "lead in" ramp, and make your own heads of different diameters? The rest of the tool is basically a screw, nut, and collars.

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

I have an idea on the tool, I will bounce it off a knowledgeable person when I see him if February.. I think it will work

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[crowsbeak]

Last seals I pulled I went to Autozone and got the pilot bearing puller and slide hammer from their rent a tool program. I pulled two drive shaft seals and two prop shaft seals with these and didn’t mar anything up. I was able to hold the propeller bearing in one hand and use the slide hammer with the other to pull the seals. For the drive shaft seals I needed force it in the lip then I just turned the barbs and pulled up on good lip, it worked great.

1954 Evinrude 7.5 HP
1954 Evinrude 15 HP
1954 Gale 12 HP
1956 Gale 12 HP
1956 Evinrude 5.5 HP
1960 Evinrude 18 HP
1973 Johnson 6 HP

[garry-in-michigan]

I use the three jawed puller that came with Harbor Freights slide hammer . . .

[olcah]

Garry, Have you used that on an RD?
Thank you.

[garry-in-michigan]

I have used it on Big Twins. (I didn’t work on Johnsons) It requires a little modification to work on smaller diameter seals, and of course, the shaft must be removed. Only the factory puller (Or a member built equivalent) will work with the shaft in place . . . 😀

[olcah]

edit.

[olcah]

Garry, Since the Johnson RDs and the Evinrude Big Twins are mechanically the same I assume you are saying that the puller did not work on the smaller HP Johnsons. Please straighten me out if that is not correct. I have the 1952- 1956 Johnson 25 and 30 HP (RD) motors in mind. Thank you.

[wetwillie]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Fwiw, I wound up removing the rubber innards before collapsing the exposed brass outer case using a small pointed punch. I then grabbed the deformed metal with a channel locks (ie. I didn’t have a small vise grip available) and hammered on the channel locks until the seal broke free and came out.
Now, I need some advice with removing the needle bearing that is located under that seal. There really isn’t much of a shoulder to tap against if coming from underneath.
Willie

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