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Aidan Smith.
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May 3, 2026 at 1:32 pm #317452
I have a 1953 Mercury KG7, with a Q lower. I believe it is an original factory swapped tower and lower, but not a silk-screened Q. Matching serial number and tank rim.
I’m looking to have a couple impellers on hand for that lower unit. I’m not sure that it takes the same size as the standard fishing lower units, but if anyone knows where I can find them, please let me know.
I am also baffled by the Bendix ignition. I redid my KF3, and 7, that both have the Scintilla, so I am aware of the quirks. I have great spark, but it will NOT fire. I’m not quite sure about the best place for points setting, as the cam lobe is rather large. It seems to be moving the points right after TDC, but I haven’t been able to figure out the multimeter trick to find true TDC, and when the points should open.
Thank you
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1949 Mercury KE-4
1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
1952 Mercury KG-7Q1937 Evinrude Scout
1938 Elto Pal
1946 Evinrude RangerMay 3, 2026 at 4:15 pm #317461Contact Tom Thurwhacker, the Merc Guy. I bet he has info on this if nobody chimes in here.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
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May 4, 2026 at 6:15 pm #317587
A multimeter is useful when timing when the points will open when your using a timing tool, but here you’re just setting the gap. You just need to be on the high part of the cam.
If you have spark, and assuming there isn’t some other issue, it’s possible that you need to replace the crankshaft seals.


A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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May 4, 2026 at 6:16 pm #317588..

This is a short video installing the seal. Posting it separately so the whole thing doesn’t disappear. I didn’t think to record it but, you should also drop in the “cold” bearing while the bearing retainer is still hot. Remember to put the bearing in your freezer, in a plastic bag (plastic bag is to maintain tranquility – may not be successful in all cases) a few hours ahead of time. https://youtu.be/hvAA1Rn_htg
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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May 5, 2026 at 6:00 am #317609For some reason, I recall this number…… .235 BTDC…. That is the piston set at .235 before TDC
I “THINK” that is where you set the points to fire.. A long past former member had documentation on these Mercs….
Might have been for the 20H setups but I would think they would be the same..
Someone makes a degree wheel and pointer to set the ignition for these…
Find out who makes that tool and you will be fine… better than guessing….Enjoy that ride….
Richard
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com1 user thanked author for this post.
May 5, 2026 at 9:28 am #317618Unfortunately, I believe my crank seals are gone.
When I pulled the mag plate, there was a fine oil slick across the bottom of the rotor.
I also had it running great in the test tank for about 30 minutes, then it suddenly started backfiring, and couldn’t be resolved by adjusting the carb or timing.
I’m thinking I will go through the motor before the summer, replace all gaskets and both crank seals.
If anyone has any other recommendations or advice, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1949 Mercury KE-4
1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
1952 Mercury KG-7Q1937 Evinrude Scout
1938 Elto Pal
1946 Evinrude RangerMay 5, 2026 at 10:10 am #317619Tubs,
When you said to put the bearing in the freezer, the whole assembly? Or remove the bearing from the plate first.
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1949 Mercury KE-4
1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
1952 Mercury KG-7Q1937 Evinrude Scout
1938 Elto Pal
1946 Evinrude RangerMay 5, 2026 at 12:44 pm #317627
The seal is under the bearing. You need to remove the bearing first to replace the seal. Heating the bearing retainer expands where the seal and bearing goes. The cool temperature in the freezer will cause the bearing to become smaller. Not necessary for the seal but it wouldn’t hurt anything either. Even though its a minuscule amount its enough that the seal and the cooled bearing will just slip right into the hot bearing retainer. You need to be quick. Once they come in contact with each other, everything starts to reverse.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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May 6, 2026 at 10:06 am #317732
Aidan – The link will work now. https://youtu.be/hvAA1Rn_htg
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
May 6, 2026 at 10:47 am #317736If you have the “Q” tower, you probably have the high speed gear case?????? I don’t think the impellers are the same as the service lower units..
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com1 user thanked author for this post.
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