Home Forum Ask A Member Mercury KG7Q

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  • #317452
    Aidan Smith
    Participant

      US Junior Member

      I have a 1953 Mercury KG7, with a Q lower. I believe it is an original factory swapped tower and lower, but not a silk-screened Q. Matching serial number and tank rim.

      I’m looking to have a couple impellers on hand for that lower unit. I’m not sure that it takes the same size as the standard fishing lower units, but if anyone knows where I can find them, please let me know.

      I am also baffled by the Bendix ignition. I redid my KF3, and 7, that both have the Scintilla, so I am aware of the quirks. I have great spark, but it will NOT fire. I’m not quite sure about the best place for points setting, as the cam lobe is rather large. It seems to be moving the points right after TDC, but I haven’t been able to figure out the multimeter trick to find true TDC, and when the points should open.

      Thank you

      "Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
      1949 Mercury KE-4
      1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
      1952 Mercury KG-7Q

      1937 Evinrude Scout
      1938 Elto Pal
      1946 Evinrude Ranger

      #317461
      Waunnaboat
      Participant

        US Junior Member

        Contact Tom Thurwhacker, the Merc Guy.   I bet he has info on this if nobody chimes in here.

        "Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."

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        #317587
        Tubs
        Participant
          A multimeter is useful when timing when the points will open when your using a timing tool, but here you’re just setting the gap. You just need to be on the high part of the cam.
          If you have spark, and assuming there isn’t some other issue, it’s possible that you need to replace the crankshaft seals.  

           

          A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

          1 user thanked author for this post.
          #317588
          Tubs
          Participant

            ..

            This is a short video installing the seal. Posting it separately so the whole thing doesn’t disappear.  I didn’t think to  record it but, you should also drop in the “cold” bearing while the bearing retainer is still hot. Remember to put the bearing in your freezer, in a plastic bag (plastic bag is to maintain tranquility – may not be successful in all cases) a few hours ahead of time. https://youtu.be/hvAA1Rn_htg  

            A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

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            #317609
            RICHARD A. WHITE
            Participant

              Lifetime Member

              For some reason, I recall this number…… .235 BTDC…. That is the piston set at .235 before TDC
              I “THINK” that is where you set the points to fire.. A long past former member had documentation on these Mercs….
              Might have been for the 20H setups but I would think they would be the same..
              Someone makes a degree wheel and pointer to set the ignition for these…
              Find out who makes that tool and you will be fine… better than guessing….

              Enjoy that ride….

              Richard

              http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
              classicomctools@gmail.com

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              #317618
              Aidan Smith
              Participant

                US Junior Member

                Unfortunately, I believe my crank seals are gone.

                When I pulled the mag plate, there was a fine oil slick across the bottom of the rotor.

                I also had it running great in the test tank for about 30 minutes, then it suddenly started backfiring, and couldn’t be resolved by adjusting the carb or timing.

                I’m thinking I will go through the motor before the summer, replace all gaskets and both crank seals.

                If anyone has any other recommendations or advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

                 

                Thank you,

                "Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
                1949 Mercury KE-4
                1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
                1952 Mercury KG-7Q

                1937 Evinrude Scout
                1938 Elto Pal
                1946 Evinrude Ranger

                #317619
                Aidan Smith
                Participant

                  US Junior Member

                  Tubs,

                  When you said to put the bearing in the freezer, the whole assembly? Or remove the bearing from the plate first.

                  "Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
                  1949 Mercury KE-4
                  1952 Mercury KF-3,-5,-7
                  1952 Mercury KG-7Q

                  1937 Evinrude Scout
                  1938 Elto Pal
                  1946 Evinrude Ranger

                  #317627
                  Tubs
                  Participant
                    The seal is under the bearing. You need to remove the bearing first to replace the seal.  Heating the bearing retainer expands where the seal and bearing goes.  The cool temperature in the freezer will cause the bearing to become smaller. Not necessary for the seal but it wouldn’t hurt anything either.  Even though its a minuscule amount its enough that the seal and the cooled bearing will just slip right into the hot bearing retainer. You need to be quick. Once they come in contact with each other, everything starts to reverse. 

                    A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                    1 user thanked author for this post.
                    #317732
                    Tubs
                    Participant

                      Aidan – The link will work now. https://youtu.be/hvAA1Rn_htg     

                      A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

                      #317736
                      RICHARD A. WHITE
                      Participant

                        Lifetime Member

                        If you have the “Q” tower, you probably have the high speed gear case?????? I don’t think the impellers are the same as the service lower units..

                        http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                        classicomctools@gmail.com

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