OMC vs HF flywheel puller

[fisherman6]

Not to stray from the topic, but I love that Golden Jubilee Big Twin! That’s a nice one Wedgie.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[Mumbles]

Is there such a thing as a puller ever being too good? 😮

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[wetwillie]

Thanks, Mumbles, for spoiling my breakfast. 🙁

[amuller]

I’m not so clear on the advantage of the shoulder bolts over ordinary grade 8 hardware. The weakest point in tension will still be at the threads, and a stiffer bolt would seem to concentrate any bending there, perhaps making the stresses more unequal…..

Alan

[wetwillie]

I share your opinion re: advantage of shoulder bolts for the same reason.
BTW, here’s a closeup of how I have my flywheel supported by straps. PLEASE don’t tell me the bolts around the perimeter have to be removed.

[jerry-ahrens]

I would remove the thin hardware store washers and only use the thick OMC washers from the kit. The thin washers are to soft and it looks to me like they are getting smashed. From the picture it looks like the puller is digging into the flywheel nut? I can’t tell for sure. That puller will work better with the original shoulder bolts and the original thick washers from the kit. That’s an important part of the kit required to make it perform so well.

[richardg]

The OMC Puller has a nice flat on the center bolt where it contacts the crankshaft that is less likely to spread the crank shaft threads the way the pointy section of the harmonic balancer puller does.

I still try to use a thin nut on the top of the crankshaft to prevent damaging the threads when pulling a flywheel since I have found a relatively large number of crank shafts with the first few threads distorted out.

When I find a crank distorted that way I have some high end dies that are split so you can expand them a bit, usually get them threaded on anyway, the once threaded down a ways, return the die to the proper size, then back the die up to cut down the distorted top section of the threads.

[wetwillie]

Well, I’m glad no one has told me the perimeter bolts have to be removed. That’s a relief.
Although its tough to see in the pic, there is a slight gap between the nut and the puller. I considered putting a suitable washer on top of the nut and having the puller push against the nut vs the crankshaft end. My rationale being it would increase the surface area between the puller bolt and the crank and reduce the likelihood of damaging the end of the crank. I still may depending upon responses to the idea.
As for the thin washers. I put them on to increase the contact area between the bolt heads and the OMC washers which have a pretty large ID vs the underside of the bolt heads. That was the case even with the original shoulder bolts. If they’re getting smashed, its not very much.

[amuller]

I believe those perimeter bolts hold the ring gear on and are irrelevant to pulling the wheel off the crank.

Washers are a problem. I usually use a stack of grade 8 washers of decreasing size, but making up some pads out of bar stock would likely be better.

I’m right now trying to take off a flywheel that has hammer marks around the hub, suggesting it was pounded ONTO the crank. Not a good sign….

Wico/Chrysler flywheels frequently have dimples or cast-in holes but they aren’t threaded. Easy enough to drill them on a drill press, but not a very nice job when the wheel is mounted and the mag parts are waiting underneath. Does anybody see a problem with drilling them through, as opposed to drilling and tapping blind holes (assuming the wheel is loose, of course)?

[vintin]

quote WetWillie:

Well, I’m glad no one has told me the perimeter bolts have to be removed. That’s a relief.
Although its tough to see in the pic, there is a slight gap between the nut and the puller. I considered putting a suitable washer on top of the nut and having the puller push against the nut vs the crankshaft end. My rationale being it would increase the surface area between the puller bolt and the crank and reduce the likelihood of damaging the end of the crank. I still may depending upon responses to the idea.
As for the thin washers. I put them on to increase the contact area between the bolt heads and the OMC washers which have a pretty large ID vs the underside of the bolt heads. That was the case even with the original shoulder bolts. If they’re getting smashed, its not very much.

I wouldn’t do it. I believe you may put the threads on the crankshaft at risk.

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