OMC vs HF flywheel puller

[The Boat House]

WetWillie
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[wetwillie]

I’m in the same boat as you, Ben, with regard to getting backups of both. I’ll get some hardened washers too, if they’re available.
I only have 2 OMC (?) bolts left, Dan, having snapped one earlier. The one I broke this evening was a Grade 8 also.
Concern for damaging the crank has been in the back of my mind since using the HF puller and noticing a slight flaring of the crank end. That was done w/o the nut in place. I lubed the threads with Never-Sieze and ran the bolt on and off a couple of times before leaving it on with a slight gap between it and the flywheel and the underside of the puller bolt.
I spoke with Kingfisher tonight. He asked if cutting the flywheel off was a feasible alternative. I told him no.
Thanks.

[wetwillie]

Got it Tubs. Thanks.
You have mail 😉

[reivertom]

After reading this thread, the only thing I can add is what my Dad would say….. "You’re not holding your mouth right…" :^) It looks like you have yourself a bonafide PITA! Have you tried a heat gun with a ball of foil on the nut and crank for a heat shield? Could you heat up the fly wheel and then cover it and hit the crank nut and shaft with a coolant such as compressed air in a can like you blow out computers with? If it is under pressure from the puller, it might be enough. I know it’s a long shot, but it might work if there is enough temperature difference. So what if you cook your coils at this point?

[wetwillie]

I have not considered the position of my mouth, but HAVE found myself muttering various words. The ones prior to tightening the center bolt to be far different than those expressed afterwards. I would not be surprised if my facial expressions change during each attempt as well.
As for using a ball of foil for a heat shield. I have not but I really like that idea and will most definitely try that the next time around. As for a heat source, I’ve been using a Bernzomatic propane torch. I have also been using the exact type of coolant as you described. I have had the flywheel hot to the touch and the nut/crank end, literally, frosty white.

For anyone interested in an update, I ordered a set of Grade 8 shouldered bolts from Fastenal this morning. I also ordered a set of Grade 9 bolts. They are due to arrive on Wed. At which time, I will do everything that has been suggested in the preceding posts including different facial expressions as I torque the sucker down.
Also, I have done a little research to satisfy my curiosity re: the difference in tensile strength between grade 8 and 9 bolts. I was disappointed to learn that although the grade 9 bolts have higher tensile strength, they are more brittle and do not handle shock loads very well. 🙁
To be contd.

[vintin]

Get a part number for that flywheel so you know what you’re looking at just in case it comes to that.

I bet a member here has one.

[wetwillie]

Thought someone might like a status report. I picked up the bolts I’d ordered from Fastenal this afternoon. I thought I’d use the "Big Guns" first by threading in the Grade 9 bolts. I lubed everything up with Never Seize and went so far as to use a vernier caliper to make certain the puller was parallel with the flywheel surface. I added 2′ extensions to the breaker bar to tighten the puller bolt and the shaft that holds the puller. I also wrapped the puller assembly with a towel in case anything let go. I torqued it down until it was difficult to tighten any further even with the 2′ extensions. One of the bolts snapped. 👿
I replaced the Grade 9 bolts with the Grade 8 shouldered bolts and repeated the above process. I tightened as much as I felt was safe and left it like that.
Maybe, hopefully, my prayers will be answered and it’ll let go over night.
To be continued.

[johnyrude200]

To frank’s point, if the flywheel doesn’t pop off after you tighten down the center puller bolt to the point where common sense tells you those smaller outer 3 bolts are going to fail, don’t keep going.

Give the center bolt a whack, I use a small 8lb hammer. The blunt shock wave usually generates enough force to jar the flywheel off the crank taper.

I’d love to hear Frank elaborate more on his #3 point about ‘RAISING the flywheel.’ I know with the old ruddertwins, the way you remove the flywheel is by having somebody/something hold the flywheel and suspend the motor in mid air, while a 2nd person strikes the flywheel nut (loosened up to allow the release of the flywheel off the crank). There are no puller holes in those flywheels. And on that note – anyone have any info on how many ft-lbs those nuts should be tightened down to? Hope to get my ruddertwin working someday…fresh out of the original shipping crate with all the tags still on it!

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