An Elto Cub is extremely light weight . Lot of them were used on canoes. At 1/2 hp it will move you but if there is a stiff breeze you may go backwards 🙂
Ah, my bad, the OP was talking about a Senior Speedster, I confused him with you and your Cub. That will fit great, as you say, and they are a sharp looking little motor. To overcome the wind, Tubs could run two or three of them at a time. 🙂
An Elto Cub is extremely light weight . Lot of them were used on canoes. At 1/2 hp it will move you but if there is a stiff breeze you may go backwards 🙂
Ah, my bad, the OP was talking about a Senior Speedster, I confused him with you and your Cub. That will fit great, as you say, and they are a sharp looking little motor. To overcome the wind, Tubs could run two or three of them at a time. 🙂
An Elto Cub is extremely light weight . Lot of them were used on canoes. At 1/2 hp it will move you but if there is a stiff breeze you may go backwards 🙂
Ah, my bad, the OP was talking about a Senior Speedster, I confused him with you and your Cub. That will fit great, as you say, and they are a sharp looking little motor. To overcome the wind, Tubs could run two or three of them at a time. 🙂
An Elto Cub is extremely light weight . Lot of them were used on canoes. At 1/2 hp it will move you but if there is a stiff breeze you may go backwards 🙂
Ah, my bad, the OP was talking about a Senior Speedster, I confused him with you and your Cub. That will fit great, as you say, and they are a sharp looking little motor. To overcome the wind, Tubs could run two or three of them at a time. 🙂
You have a later tank possibly. This motor has the somewhat rare rudder attachment swivel boss on the cooling feed tip at the lower unit. The best battery to use when powering the ignition is the large 6 volt golf cart battery as it will go for hours. Smaller size 6 volt batteries go alright for about 20 or 30 minutes then it will pop and sputter at high speed. Do not over advance the timing at full speed and use a cool range plug (old 18mm racing plugs work fine) as this will prevent the pistons from sticking and they certainly will otherwise! Use about one pint of TCW3 oil per gallon of gas. Todays ethanol gasoline is ok to use in older antique outboards as they didn’t use rubber crank seals or rubber fuel parts. For the lower unit you need a “000” grade grease or a “00” grade. John Deer cornhead grease is a “0” grade but is thisotropic as it liquifies under action and works fine. Disassemble the gear case and replace the ball bearings. They are likely corroded, but they are still available through Grainger or Motion Industries and are just standard measure using the same bearing numbers and brand to this day! If your ignition is ever bad, you can gut the old coil casing and put a couple of newer coils inside it keeping the old look. Condensers can be replaced with a condenser for a 1968 AMX (390 V-8) car, available at leading auto parts stores as they can order them next day. It is about the same size condenser and is 2-microfarads capacity as most all condensers on all old outboards (including later OMCs) are. Always use 6 volts as anything more can burn your contact points. Make sure to grease the actuator rod for your ignition trigger box. The pistons are iron if its a service motor with the better bronze connecting rods, while the high speed used lynite (alloy aluminum like material) rods and pistons. Have fun with your motor! It will run around 15mph on a flat 14′ skiff and about 23 or so on an 11-12′ stepper race boat of the day. The high speed model was about 4 or 5 mph faster as it had extra air intake ports.
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