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1957evinrude.
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August 29, 2017 at 6:07 pm #8066
Trying to clean up a Scott 3.6HP steel tank. It has both rust and residual oil and gas coating. I have tried several treatments with ammonia ( soaked several days each time.) Better but still contaminates carb when I run the engine. DOES SOMEONE HAVE ANOTHER PROCESS.
THANKSJohn
August 29, 2017 at 6:22 pm #64001I’ve never used ammonia but bought some to try. My rusty tank formula is:
1. Acetone left in a couple of days and sloshed around to cut the hardened hydrocarbons. Repeat as needed.
2. Phosphoric acid rust treatment ("krud cutter," "phosphos," etc) shaken up with stones, until inside of tank is shiny.
3. Hot water and detergent–TSP is most effective but can be hard to find. This might be #2 in some cases.
4. Dry thoroughly.
At this point the inside of the tank should be clean shiny metal. Dent removal, patching, etc. now.
4. Coat inside with POR-15. This will stop small leaks and future corrosion, but ONLY if put on clean metal.All this, obviously, is a pain in the ass, and takes days, but should leave you with the practical equivalent of a new tank.
August 29, 2017 at 6:51 pm #64002I use muratic acid. Works in minutes and does great! Wished I had discovered this ages ago
August 29, 2017 at 8:02 pm #64004When done cleaning it out, if in doubt, add an inline filter between tank and carb.
DaveAugust 29, 2017 at 8:33 pm #64009Move it with electricity, same as plating reversed. Anode/cathode action. A chain saw place has small 2-stroke filters.
August 30, 2017 at 12:15 am #64022I had the same problem with my Dad’s ’57 model. I didn’t want to put much time into it because I seldom run it, so I put an in-line filter on the fuel line and problem solved. There are some that are small enough not to be too obvious, but big enough to handle the flow. It isn’t OEM, but it works!
September 1, 2017 at 2:43 am #64117I used a battery charger if I remember correctly. Someone might have the details on this.
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