Home Forum Ask A Member scott atwater disassemble

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  • #164315
    william hudson
    Participant

      I am in the process of taking down a 1947 3.6 hp, so far the fly wheel and power head are free. I am trying to remove the back plate from the foot. I can’t get the two screws on the plate loose. I have a habit of breaking things when I apply force. Help is appreciated.

      #164333
      frankr
      Participant

        US Member

        Got a hand-impact screwdriver? Use it. I’ve never seen those screws that won’t come out. I suppose you could be the first though.

        Gearcase-and-Propeller

        #164920
        john8504
        Participant

          I have used both a handheld impact driver and a powered one. Definitely cheaper to go handheld if you don’t have either.

          #165137
          jeff-register
          Participant

            US Member - 2 Years

            If you break it I have another case you can have.

            #165179
            william hudson
            Participant

              Thanks for the offer, with my luck, I may have to take you up. I’ll try banging and twisting a little harder and see what happens.

              #165180
              william hudson
              Participant

                Thanks for the diagram, once the screws are removed, how do I get to the impeller?

                #165181
                frankr
                Participant

                  US Member

                  After the screws are out, remove the cap off the front of the gearcase. That will allow access to the nut holding the front of the gearcase. Remove that nut and the one at the aft of the gearcase. Pull the gearcase down and away. Anti-cavitation plate may come with it. Impeller is in the pump cavity below the cavitation plate. It is a wobbler-type impeller (rotor) #463-5100.

                  #165646
                  william hudson
                  Participant

                    Thanks for the information finally got the plate off and pulled the shaft, the impeller looks good, no cracks and not dried out. Should I change it out anyway? Got another question, how is the mounting bracket removed from the shaft? If I had your email address I could send you a picture, I don’t know how to post pictures on the AMOCI website. While I’m at it, the response to asked questions is amazing from this AOMCI group. The amount of information is second to none.

                    #165650
                    frankr
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Requirements of a wobbler pump rotor are:

                      1 Must be a snug fit on the eccentric cam

                      2. Rotor must just flush with top of housing, not above or below.

                      3. Outside of rotor must just touch the inside of the housing at some point. Other side should have a space between rotor and pump housing. If you rotate the shaft, that space will move from one side to other, then disappear, then reappear and the process repeats itself. It is that space moving from one side to the other that fills with water, moving it from intake side to outlet side.

                      4. No excess wear in cavity or top plate. (Sand & silt wears the out)

                      #165651
                      frankr
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Thanks for the information finally got the plate off and pulled the shaft, the impeller looks good, no cracks and not dried out. Should I change it out anyway? Got another question, how is the mounting bracket removed from the shaft? If I had your email address I could send you a picture, I don’t know how to post pictures on the AMOCI website. While I’m at it, the response to asked questions is amazing from this AOMCI group. The amount of information is second to none.

                        You can send a private message to members by clicking on their name to the left of these pages (frankr)

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