Home Forum Ask A Member Seal Removal

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 26 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #194997
    bobw
    Participant

      US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

      Fleetwin – I ended up doing just about what you described. I first pulled the rubber portion of the seal out leaving just the metal case. My seal puller was just tearing through the face of the case so I grabbed the top face with some pliers and pulled it inward toward the center of the hole, thereby collapsing the case inward away from the bore in the housing. After I got a small space between the bore and the seal case, I applied a little heat from the torch and some PB Blaster around the bore edge. After 30 minutes or so, gave it a little tug with the seal puller and it came right out. No damage to the housing, bore hole or bushing. Seal ended up being pretty torn up but who cares – it’s out!

      IMG_6618

      Bob

      1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
      1954 Johnson CD-11
      1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
      1958 Johnson QD-19
      1958 Johnson FD-12
      1959 Johnson QD-20

      “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
      "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

      #195015
      fleetwin
      Participant

        US Member - 2 Years

        Good work! Dave Bono made me a few seal pullers that work with a two piece collet that fits under the upper metal seal housing once the rubber is removed. There is a threaded bolt that draws the seal up into a cylinder….Works well, but even this sometime takes a few tries because the darn seal housing just bends upward allowing the collet to pop out….
        The only thing I am convinced of is that the slide hammer methods usually just end up bending the lip upwards until you have nothing left to work with…
        Those 10hp upper bushing seal assemblies are getting harder/more expensive to find, so I’m glad you saved it successfully…

        #195020
        The Boat House
        Participant

          #195046
          frankr
          Participant

            US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

            I’ve done a bazillion seal removals as tubs shows above. Job is much easier done with a small cape chisel. Most people nowadays don’t even know what a cape chisel is

            Cape-Chisel

            • This reply was modified 4 years, 2 months ago by frankr.
            #195049
            labrador-guy
            Participant

              US Member - 2 Years

              Frank, nice looking chisel! That will loosen that puppy up! I gotta make one of those somehow.

              dale

              #195051
              frankr
              Participant

                US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                You can more or less duplicate it by re-grinding the tip on a round drift punch..

                #195083
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member - 2 Years

                  You want real slippery… try Dupont Teflon spray for snow blowers it just soaks deep in cracks and would probably get the seal to be removed without to much pain

                  the stuff is made so the snow exits the snowblower quicker and prevent ice from sticking … (probably not available in Florida 🙂 ) but Amazon has it

                  https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Snow-Ice-Repellant/dp/B07Q7DD2YC

                  Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                  #195127
                  fleetwin
                  Participant

                    US Member - 2 Years

                    .

                    OK, I’m not afraid to show my ignorance….That tool sure looks effective, but how do you use it on the seals???

                    #195198
                    frankr
                    Participant

                      US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                      As with any job, start by first standing back and evaluating the situation. Different seals, different installations etc. But whatever the case, the general procedure is to first attack the top of the seal at it’s outer rim, angling the cape chisel’s rounded cutting edge toward the center, and go around it like a can opener to cut the top off. Then going downward attack the outer shell of the seal to fold it inward as tubs is doing in his picture with a pointy punch. The rounded cape chisel is less likely to damage the seal bore in the part. Once it is folded inward it will almost fall out.

                      #197416
                      bobw
                      Participant

                        US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)

                        I started on the gearcase reseal job today only to find a crack in the seal housing. It’s not something that could be repaired with epoxy or JB Weld so unfortunately I’m on the search for a replacement housing, OMC part #377186. I put an ad over in the Classifieds but thought I’d post a note here as well. I know these plates can be hard to come by but if anybody has one they’d be willing to sell, contact me at rockportbob19@gmail.com.

                        Bob

                        1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
                        1954 Johnson CD-11
                        1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
                        1958 Johnson QD-19
                        1958 Johnson FD-12
                        1959 Johnson QD-20

                        “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
                        "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

                      Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 26 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.