Sealant or not on old NOS fiber gaskets?

[JACQUES]

another practical book to download … included converting oldies to pumps instead of pressure tanks

changing impeller on some models looks tricky but really not that hard.   visit vintage outboard .com for gaskets

Johnson Evinrude outboard impellers, seals, lower unit kits, water pump kits, gaskets – VintageOutboard.com

careful with base gaskets….shapes vary from year to year !!!

Dropping the Lower Unit on mid 50’s 5.5 and 7.5 Johnsons and Evinrudes

 

 

Cheap Outboards: The Beginner’s Guide to Making an Old Motor Run Forever eBook : Wawrzyniak III, Max: Amazon.ca: Kindle Store

HOW TO CONVERT 50s motors from two line tanks

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[Bob Wight]

I normally do not use a sealer on the cylinder head gasket but yours looks a little sketchy so I would use some on that one.  The exhaust cover gasket should use a sealer.  You should not use a sealer on the intake manifold and reed plate gaskets as you do not want to have any excess sealer gumming up the intake.   BRP gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation sealer #3 are good choices.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20
1982 Evinrude 25hp

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

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Stewart Mayer

[JACQUES]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVOedhzPP7M

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[Don]

Well, I do not recommend reusing old gaskets, especially the head gasket.  I would use some light sealer, such as the OMC/merc gasket sealer on most gaskets for sure.  The only exception are the intake gaskets, no sealer should be used on those.  But, I often coat those gaskets with some grease during installation.

I know that there are many recommendations about not using the light gasket sealer.  On a new engine, with nice/flat machined surfaces, this is fine.  But, we are working on old engines, most of the surfaces are not completely flat.

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Stewart Mayer

[Stewart Mayer]

Thank you.  If we wanted to0 make our own gaskets, do you happen to know what kind of gasket material to use for head gaskets, and then other gaskets?  We have a laser cutter here, and I could probably scan and trace in the computer the existing gaskets we have, and then quickly laser cut them.  Assuming the laser can cut through the material, they would come out great!

[Stewart Mayer]

Thank you everyone for the advice!  I’m loving the manual and links. Regarding the head gaskets, we could make our own by scanning the existing gaskets and cut them out with our CO2 laser cutter, assuming it would cut through the material.  I’d like to try this instead of using the old gaskets we got in.  The originals got torn up while taking the motors apart.

Can someone tell me what type of gasket material to buy (and maybe where to find it) for different applications such as head gaskets, intake gaskets, base gaskets, etc?

Also, here is my list of motors.  I found them on marketplace over the past few months and averaged about $50 a piece:

• 1956 Evinrude 7520, 7.5hp
• 1954 Evinrude 7516 7.5hp
• 1958 Evinrude 5516, 5.5hp
• 1956 Johnson QD-17, 10hp
• 1950 Johnson QD-11 10hp (this one has a very different carb and is going to be a challenge)
• 1947 Johnson HD25, 2.5hp
• and two 1963 McCullogh 7.5hp motors (these are in better shape, but maybe more challenging since parts and information are hard to find)

[Don]

Sorry, don’t know much about gasket materials/construction.

[JACQUES]

gaskets used for sealing surface under no great pressure  like base gaskets,  carb  gaskets to seal air    can usually be made from common rolled up gasket material  from auto shops… or simply purchased    but some  cyl head gasket frequently have  a metallic rim because of the high pressures and temperature of the cylinders . Home made  gaskets may simply burst causing a drop of compression or internal water leaks  .. it is best you use  available ones on the market    just visit vintageoutboard.com     it likely has all you need

I have used Sierra stuff with no problems.  check  also on EBay or Amazon.

carb wise   if the floats  looks decent just use it.   old  cork ones may have dried up and should be replaced.  If the cork is decent  just sand  it down a bit with 150 grit. They can be reseal using  fuel proof  model airplane  “dope” .   I have used crazy glue seems to work ok  just don’t inhale the fumes and protect your eyes!! wash the carb body  parts and  clean out all orifices and blow dry.  on smaller carbs  there is a side orifice feeding fuel to the top..make certain it is clean!!

carb test…. when done reassembling carbs  air can be blown IN  while held upside UP      flipped over air must not enter the carb if air goes in it means the needle is not seating properly … take it apart and fix.     Carbs and toilet bowl reservoirs work the same way!    when FULL they stop the inflow when the float rises.

 

 

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[Stewart Mayer]

Excellent advice, thank you.  As we continue through this process I’m going to make a checklist/spreadsheet for the students with the info from this thread provided by so many users.

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Sam M.

[JACQUES]

if you service cracked coils may as well replace the plug wires  and boots   make certain you use only  solid/strand wire 7mm  which will give you 0 ohms  from coil end to boots..   Automotive wire  uses high resistance carbon wires to reduce emission of static noise  interference in theold am band radios. Tractor supply store, bike shops , small motor  shops use it and will likely sell you a few feet.

coil wise the 2  short primary wires have  1-2 ohms   and either wire should read 4-8 Kohms  with the high voltage pin.  when installing tuck wires under the coil away from the rotating cam.  1-2 drops of GC oil on the small felts.   Front coil goes to the top cyl.

 

 

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[Author]

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