To Hone or Not to Hone

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Viewing 6 posts - 11 through 16 (of 16 total)

  • Mumbles


    Replies: 5764
    Topics: 298
    #229544

    I use water. That’s right. Water. It’s free and also environmentally friendly.

    For years I used honing oil building V8’s and other engines but it was always a challenge to get the blocks perfectly clean after as the oil would wash into every nook and cranny carrying the abrasive grit with it. When I started using ball hones on outboard blocks it was the same so one day I thought I’d try something different trying something which was basically free and cleaned up easily, water.

    To do it, I fill one bucket with warm water out of the tap and add a fair amount of dish soap to it to act as a lubricant. Another bucket gets filled with really hot water for the rinsing solution. The block will sit flat in the bucket of soapy water with the open end of the cylinders facing up so it’s easy to get the hone into the cylinders. Once the cylinders are done, I rinse it out really well in the other bucket of hot water to remove any grit and soapy residue. A small disposable resin brush can be used to help clean the inside of the crankcase and the bypass/exhaust ports. Sometimes I’ll rinse them under a tap but a roll of paper towels, a can of WD-40 and a fully charged air compressor with a blow gun on the end of the hose have to be ready as the cylinders will start to rust as soon as they are pulled out of the rinse water. First I blow the cylinders dry followed by a quick spray of the WD-40 and then a wipe with a paper towel. Then the rest of the block can be dried off with the air gun. A paper towel sprayed with the WD can then be used to wipe the cylinders again until a clean towel shows no residue on it. Using hot water for the rinse also helps to dry the block off.

    I’ve found doing it this way has several benefits. First, I don’t have to deal with any special oils or cleaning solvents, second, the water can be poured down the drain or dumped on the lawn, and third, I don’t have to change out of my dirty clothes or wash my hands after.


    bobw

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 2448
    Topics: 56
    #229551

    I’ve always used buckets of hot water and Dawn dishwash soap to clean the cylinders after honing with oil, but it is always a job to make sure all the oil and honing grit are thoroughly cleaned out. Never thought of using the water and soap to do the honing. Think I’ll try that on my next one!

    Bob

    1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
    1954 Johnson CD-11
    1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
    1958 Johnson QD-19
    1958 Johnson FD-12
    1959 Johnson QD-20

    “Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
    "Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."


    jeff-register

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 1564
    Topics: 54
    #229555

    Thank you Don!!
    Using a long stone hone will tell you of low spots then the ball home gives a better surface prep, I think. To check for cylinder wear put a ring in & check end gap at top & bottom of stroke. Using a small light look for “leaking light” between the ring & cylinder. I always used cutting oil for pipe threaders because that’s what I had. Like many said it’s good enough for government work. Opinions will vary & betting many will function for service.
    I have an old Firestone 7.5hp 1954 & it’s never been apart & runs fine still. Get your magneto & fuel system in good shape too.
    Enjoy!!


    fleetwin

    US Member - 2 Years
    Replies: 4737
    Topics: 46
    #229561

    I use water. That’s right. Water. It’s free and also environmentally friendly.

    For years I used honing oil building V8’s and other engines but it was always a challenge to get the blocks perfectly clean after as the oil would wash into every nook and cranny carrying the abrasive grit with it. When I started using ball hones on outboard blocks it was the same so one day I thought I’d try something different trying something which was basically free and cleaned up easily, water.

    To do it, I fill one bucket with warm water out of the tap and add a fair amount of dish soap to it to act as a lubricant. Another bucket gets filled with really hot water for the rinsing solution. The block will sit flat in the bucket of soapy water with the open end of the cylinders facing up so it’s easy to get the hone into the cylinders. Once the cylinders are done, I rinse it out really well in the other bucket of hot water to remove any grit and soapy residue. A small disposable resin brush can be used to help clean the inside of the crankcase and the bypass/exhaust ports. Sometimes I’ll rinse them under a tap but a roll of paper towels, a can of WD-40 and a fully charged air compressor with a blow gun on the end of the hose have to be ready as the cylinders will start to rust as soon as they are pulled out of the rinse water. First I blow the cylinders dry followed by a quick spray of the WD-40 and then a wipe with a paper towel. Then the rest of the block can be dried off with the air gun. A paper towel sprayed with the WD can then be used to wipe the cylinders again until a clean towel shows no residue on it. Using hot water for the rinse also helps to dry the block off.

    I’ve found doing it this way has several benefits. First, I don’t have to deal with any special oils or cleaning solvents, second, the water can be poured down the drain or dumped on the lawn, and third, I don’t have to change out of my dirty clothes or wash my hands after.

    You are sooo right, cleaning the block after honing is a critical step that is often not done well enough. There is nothing more discouraging than seeing the vertical scratches after reassembly….


    outbdnut2

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 1705
    Topics: 91
    #229574

    I have sometimes very briefly used a 3-stone hone with plenty of oil to see if any part of the cylinder is out of round on a well-used motor. The only one I found to have out of round surface was a 1976 20 Merc with mega-hours on it. After brief honing, you can see the places where the hone didn’t touch.
    Dave


    aquasonic

    US Member - 1 Year (includes $3 online payment fee)
    Replies: 634
    Topics: 42
    #229648

    Thank you to all who commented. This thread has been very educational for me. The majority here agrees that at least a light honing is called for, when new rings are installed, so that’s what I’ll do. I have on hand the proper size Flexhone for a 2 1/8″ bore.

    Because these cylinders are in decent shape to begin with, I’ll try to err on the side of caution, and keep the honing to a minimum. Here is a link to the manufacturers user instructions.

    http://www.brushresearch.com/flex-hone-instructions.php

Viewing 6 posts - 11 through 16 (of 16 total)
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