Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Wisconsin RBM Crankshaft removal
- This topic has 10 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 7 months ago by Buccaneer.
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September 16, 2018 at 10:54 pm #11235
I split the crankcase on said engine, but am unable to pull the
case off the bottom of the crankshaft as the driveshaft is attached
to the crankshaft some how, and evidently, slightly larger in OD, and
won’t slide thru the crankcase bushing. One can see the joint
(shown in photo), but there’s no pin attaching the driveshaft to the crankshaft.
How is it attached and how do I get if off???
Thanks!Prepare to be boarded!
September 17, 2018 at 3:27 pm #83043If you are absolutely, totally, beyond a shadow of a doubt sure there is no pin, apply dry ice to the bottom bushing until everything is frozen solid. Then apply a hot torch to the hollow drive shaft . . . 😎
Garry in TampaSeptember 17, 2018 at 3:36 pm #83044Garry, is seems strange there’s no pin, unless there’s some internal
"hex" or spline one can’t see, that’s just plain "stuck".
Good idea with the dry ice, but I have no clue where I’d find some
in this little burg. 30 miles to "bigger burgs"!
Hope to get to the garage yet today. Stuck with paperwork and phone
calls so far. 🙁Prepare to be boarded!
September 17, 2018 at 3:51 pm #83048- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.
September 17, 2018 at 4:12 pm #83052Tubs, thanks for the idea. It would be at least $20 minimum to order
the dry ice. I’m kind of cheap, so I’ll try just heat first!Prepare to be boarded!
September 17, 2018 at 9:15 pm #83063I got the crankshaft separated from the lower half of the crankcase today.
The steel tube attached to the bottom of the crankshaft was too big OD
to slide thru the crankcase bushing, so it had to come off. I lucked out
eventually, seeing how I did not know how it was made or put together.
What finally made it come apart was heating the tube near the joint,
then tapping on the inner drive shaft with a brass punch. I was suprised
to see that the long "tang" was part of the crankshaft!Also was able to remove the brass drive shaft housing on the lower unit,
but that still doesn’t help me with getting the prop shaft and gears out
of the case. Not sure if the drive shaft is suppose to float free in the
drive gear, or is magically attached to the gear some how.
I put the driveshaft in the vise, and tapped on the gear case with a wood
block and hammer to see if the driveshaft would pull out of the gear,
but no movement noticed. Trying very hard NOT to break anything.
Ideas?
The gears look to be in good shape, but thought it would be best to have
an empty gear case when it came time to attach a new skeg, which
I "zero" ideas how to best do on this one!Prepare to be boarded!
September 17, 2018 at 9:32 pm #83064On Evinrude’s the driveshaft gear is pinned, prop shaft gear may also be pinned to the prop shaft. So you gotta get the prop shaft out, then the prop shaft gear, then drop the drive shaft down to expose the pin there if there is one.
Just my guesses
http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.comSeptember 17, 2018 at 10:11 pm #83074- This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.
September 17, 2018 at 11:18 pm #83076Propshaft gearis typically held in place on the prop shaft with a set screw that is often hidden in the shoulder of the water pump eccentric. Clean the grease out and look through the hole where the water pump goes. If not a screw, there might be a pin, but most of the time its a slotted set screw.
Once the fastening thing is out (whatever it turns out to be) the propshaft can be driven out of the gear. Only after the propshaft gear is out of the way can you drop the driveshaft down far enough to knock out the retaining pin and pull the shaft out of the gears.
I’ve never seen a driveshaft and lower crankshaft stub ground down the way these look. There’s supposed to be a keyed sleeve coupler that fits over the crankshaft and driveshaft ends with fixed keys that fit into corresponding slots on both shafts. The pics of your motor show pieces that are ground down to next to nothing. I’m afraind that if you want to fix it correctly that extensive rehab work is going to be necessary on the crankshaft, and the drive shaft should be replaced entirely.
Here’s a look at a Wisconsin I owned a few years back. The lower unit isn’t correct, but the crankshaft and coupler sleeve are.
Best,
PM T2September 17, 2018 at 11:56 pm #83082Thanks for the replies. The procedure to remove the gear case guts
is starting to make sense now. I believe I did see a pin in the prop shaft
eccentric. I was afraid if I tried driving the pin, from the water pump hole,
that it would bottom out on the gear case, and I’d be "up the creek"
without an outboard!
Regarding my strange looking driveshaft. If that’s not an original
design with the two split halves of the shaft mated with the tube,
then someone went to extraordinary means to split them or grind them.
I’ve never seen such a "lash up" either!
Much appreciated!Prepare to be boarded!
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