Topic: 1930 Elto Speedster ignition mess – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 24 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 10 months ago by Buccaneer.

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May 18, 2018 at 6:08 pm #9963
Buccaneer
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US Member
I’m trying to get the hub off that the flywheel was bolted to.
I finally managed to get the allen set screw out on the side
of the hub. The hole that the allen goes in only appears about
1/4" deep. I wouldn’t think the crankshaft would be that fat
to only need a 1/4" set screw in the hub.
I have quite a lot a pressure on the puller, and have been
spraying pee oil around the crankshaft. I’m hesitant at this
point to put any heat on it, unless I can protect the coil.
Maybe a wet rag would be adequate.
I hate to break the hub in case it’s an actual part from something.
It was suggested that it could be a hub (with the points cam) cut
out from a flywheel. If so, I don’t see any machine marks, and
it was a darn nice job.

Also discovered, that the mag plate is from a four cylinder outboard.
You can see the old coil wires cut off in the grommets in the mag
plate, in each side of the cavity where the huge condenser is mounted.
I presume it’s a Johnson mag plate by looking at the kill switch button or
Did Evinrude use kill switch buttons like Johnson?

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May 18, 2018 at 7:06 pm #76258
garry-in-michigan
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Lifetime Member
The tapered point on the pullers center screw has been known the spread the end of the crank shaft making it hard to install the flywheel nut. – That is definitely NOT a factory modification ! ! ! 🙁
May 18, 2018 at 7:17 pm #76259
Michael
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International Member
Think I would use a 3 pronged puller and thread the appropriate bolts into the threaded holes int he hub
May 18, 2018 at 8:21 pm #76267
chris-p
Participant
I think I would use a harmonic balancer puller as well. Put the nut back on the crank to protect it, at least half way. I don’t like the pullers center bolt touching the crank for reasons Garry states plus the chance of damaging the threads.
May 18, 2018 at 8:47 pm #76271
Buccaneer
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US Member
Thanks for the idea. I presume with 12 holes to choose
from, three of them should line up with my harmonic puller!

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May 19, 2018 at 1:58 pm #76319
The Boat House
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quote Buccaneer:

I’m hesitant at this point to put any heat on it,
unless I can protect the coil. Maybe a wet rag would be adequate.

Cant just take the coil out?
May 19, 2018 at 2:25 pm #76320
Buccaneer
Participant
US Member
quote Tubs:

quote Buccaneer:

I’m hesitant at this point to put any heat on it,
unless I can protect the coil. Maybe a wet rag would be adequate.

Cant just take the coil out?

Tubs, that may have been an option. Suppose I could have cut off
the plug wires, did some un-soldering, etc., but
it’s no longer necessary. The harmonic balancer, pipe wrench to hold the hub,
and a 3/4" socket on my breaker bar popped that hub right off!
I had to make 1/4" x 28 tpi bolt on the lathe, as I only could find two
long enough. Found out that galvanized bolts don’t cut nice threads
even after you remove the galvanized coating. Also, a million of
light cuts were required on that 1/4" bolt due to the flex. It looked
like crap, but it worked.

Also, now that I have the mag plate off, I found some numbers on the bottom.
71D1131
Does anyone know what 4 cylinder motor it was from?
Photos later today.
Thanks.

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May 19, 2018 at 4:29 pm #76327
bill-loveland
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Johnson V series
May 19, 2018 at 8:46 pm #76340
Buccaneer
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US Member
quote bill_loveland:

Johnson V series

Thanks Bill, I’ll see if I can find a mag plate photo of
a Johnson V.

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May 19, 2018 at 8:54 pm #76342
garry-in-michigan
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