Home Forum Ask A Member 1957 15hp Evinrude

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  • #9819
    joesnuffy
    Participant

      Been working on my 1957 15hp Evinrude today. I purchased it a couple years ago and just never have got to it. It had new coils, new impeller, carb kit but was sold because they just could not get it right. I added my home made electronic modules to it today, new plug wires, cleaned the carb and made some packing for the high speed needle. I am not the best at soldering but when I finished the modules I put a high quality silicone on them to prevent vibration and corrosion. Here is a video of it idling with the modules and no points or condensers in engine. The way I do it anyone could swap back to points if they desired to. The engine looks brand new under the cover.

      https://youtu.be/v6hwJrwVL14

      I do need some guidance on replacing the o-rings in the fuel connector. I would like to fix it next but since I only have one pressure tank I kinda don’t want to spend the money for the tool. If I can’t fix it I could mail it to someone that has the tool. I need to know what type and size o-rings I need?? and maybe a brief how-to do it. Thanks in advance.

      Also does anyone know what that small hole is on the mid-section that is spitting out water? Is that a modification?

      Thanks,
      Joe


      Attachments:

      #75300
      david-bartlett
      Participant

        Joe,

        Looks and sounds great!

        #75303
        joesnuffy
        Participant

          Thank you David,
          Joe

          #75304
          outbdnut2
          Participant

            US Member

            FYI: According to the Old Outboard Handbook, in 1957, Evinrude made an 18 HP, not 15 HP. 1956 and earlier were 15 HP. That looks like a nice, pristine motor!

            The fuel connector O-rings can sometimes be pried out with a small screwdriver while you hold the spring-loaded center post in with another small screwdriver or rod, but if they are really old, they may have gotten too hard to deform with the screwdriver and pry out. If so, you need to whack a small rod through from the hose nipples to press out the round, flat pieces that you see on the surface and the O-rings are behind these. If you can get the O-rings out without pressing the retaining plates out, squeeze the new ones on each side so you have a long, narrow thing and feed them back into the hole, while still holding the spring-loaded post in and prod/pry it into place with a small screwdriver.
            Dave

            #75305
            joesnuffy
            Participant

              Dave,
              Thanks it must be a 1956 I just couldn’t remember if it was a 56 or 57 its been like 3 years since I purchased it. Do you happen to know what size o-ring I need? and is their a better type to use like possibly a green one for fuel injection?

              Thanks,
              Joe

              #75310
              squierka39
              Participant

                US Member

                Nice. What triggers the modules and how do you set timing without the points? Great motors by 5ne way, I’ve got one and run it every summer a lot.

                #75311
                RICHARD A. WHITE
                Participant

                  Lifetime Member

                  I make a tool to replace the o-rings, $37.50 which includes shipping and 2 new o-rings…

                  Check out http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com

                  Richard

                  http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
                  classicomctools@gmail.com

                  #75313
                  joesnuffy
                  Participant

                    "Nice. What triggers the modules and how do you set timing without the points? Great motors by 5ne way, I’ve got one and run it every summer a lot"

                    The timing is automatic and is triggered by the magnets in the flywheel North/South. I have learned they work very well on 2 stroke 2 cylinder Johnsons/Evinrudes that have points and condensers. What is nice about these is the motor fires exactly 180 degrees apart everytime which you don’t always get with points also if your crankshaft has play in it where points cam is it helps to keep the motor firing 180 degrees apart because wobble of the points cam doesn’t effect the firing as much as with points.

                    The modules I build are not my design they are modeled after the Red Atom I think they came out in the 70s and was reversed by a guy named Debe here on these forums. I am currently working on building a version of the electronic module while spending under 2 dollars per electronic module once done I will post my progress, and where I got my parts with part numbers.

                    Joe

                    #75314
                    joesnuffy
                    Participant

                      Richard,
                      I only have 2 of these pressure style engines but I only have 1 fuel pressure tank and 1 fuel connector so I am hoping I can change the orings without the special tool. If not I may purchase yours I have purchased a few of your special tools and really like them.

                      Joe

                      #75320
                      billw
                      Participant

                        US Member - 2 Years

                        After years of fighting with those connector o-rings, I bought a tool from Frank, when he was doing it. OMG it was like a light shined down from above. I think it was worth it, just to do the one connector I have done so far.

                        Okay, I’ll bite…Did I miss some article on how to make those modules or did you come up with it yourself?

                        Long live American manufacturing!

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