Home Forum Ask A Member Martin 20 won’t run

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  • #10791
    jimbrizzolara
    Participant

      I picked up a 1949 Martin 20 at Tomahawk and went through it prior to testing in a tank. The motor has good spark, 94 lbs. compression, and a clean fuel system. It won’t even "pop" when I try to start it. I removed the float bowl drain plug and gas poured out of it, so the carb is getting gas. The float and inlet valve are functioning properly. What bothers me is that gas-oil mix sprayed directly into the carb throat still does nothing. I removed the poppet valve and it looks perfect, as does the valve seat. Is there something I’m missing that’s peculiar to the poppet valve system? Also, how are these motors synchronized? There’s a rod and a spring with two adjustable stops on the left side of the engine block. This isn’t my first Martin, but this one has me stumped.

      #80842
      Anonymous

        What spark plug and gap are you using?

        #80843
        Tom
        Participant

          US Member

          The WICO condensers are notorious for doing this. Difficult, but not impossible to find a replacement.

          Tom

          #80844
          jerry-ahrens
          Participant

            US Member

            I’ve ran into a lot of Wico condensors that were weak. Does that engine have O-rings on the valve skirts? I have a Martin 45 that had those O-rings, that were hard and dried out. They would leak crankcase pressure very badly when cranking the motor. I got replacements from Russ Larson, and that fixed the problem. That motor wouldn’t even make a ”pop” when trying to start it. Just an idea for you to consider…

            #80845
            jimbrizzolara
            Participant

              I’m using a J6-C plug with a .030 gap. It looked to me that there was not an O-ring on the valve, just a metal skirt, and the skirt and valve seat both look great. Does that mean that some Martins didn’t use O-rings on the valves? As far as the condensers, I’ve been checking the spark by putting the plug in the boot and connecting a ground wire to the plug and the motor. I thought that I should check spark with a checker I have that shows the spark while under compression, simulating cylinder compression. I’m thinking you guys are on the right track about checking the condenser. I need to order an impeller from Russ anyway. Maybe I can temporarily use an OMC condenser to try things out. Thank you for the help, and I will let you know how it turns out. I was planning on entering this motor in an upcoming "how slow can you go" contest.

              #80851
              mercuryman
              Participant

                Gap plugs to .010 and see what happens.

                #80852
                jimbrizzolara
                Participant

                  If I gapped the plug to .010 and the motor fired, what would that mean?

                  #80858
                  mercuryman
                  Participant

                    Weak spark. Have you cleaned the points and checked for 1 ohm or less resistance across the points. Do you have the Outboarder Club Magazine it has a story on troubleshooting ignition systems. A good spark will jump a 3/16 " gap or more in free air, a weak spark will jump .030 " gap in free air but won’t fire under pressure.

                    #80985
                    mercuryman
                    Participant

                      I have a Martin 40 that ran bad and hard to start. I got it out after your post and today it won’t start and has real good spark. I removed the valves and pulled off a O ring it was hard. When to my O ring box and found a fit. Put it back together and now it runs super good. So O rings can look good but will leak when hard.

                      #81006
                      The Boat House
                      Participant

                        • This reply was modified 5 years, 5 months ago by The Boat House.
                        • This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by The Boat House.
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