Running a 50’s OMC in a barrel

[fisherman6]

I do not make a habit of running motors larger than 18hp in the 55 gallon drum for any length of time. I just dont feel like that is a large enough tank for that size motor. I have run 25s in it on many occasions, but not for long periods and with a regular prop very little throttle will throw a lot of water out. Those motors need a bigger tank and a test wheel in my opinion if you want to try to get carb settings anywhere close. It may help on those to remove the bypass cover but I still think a larger tank is needed to run them very long.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[Mumbles]

I’ve never had a motor overheat while running it in a barrel but I do keep an eye on the water temperature using an infrared thermometer. What I’ve found is small motors can run close to an hour in an oil drum while motors up to 18 horse can get the water temperature quite hot in as little as 10 – 15 minutes. The motors themselves are not overheating yet, but they think they are in the tropics so I shut them down and let them cool when the water temp gets near 90 F.

For the Big Twins and RD motors, I use a plastic barrel which has been cut in half. Since they spray water all over the place, I leave the hose running to keep the water level up and cool. The same plastic barrel gets used for running stern drives as a V-6 or V-8 can generate a lot of heat in a short time.

Check out my YouTube channel which has a lot of motors running cool while ‘In The Drum’.

https://www.youtube.com/user/mumbles552 … er&sort=dd

These Tempo flushing units can also be used to run a motor while it’s sitting on a stand.

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[bob-d]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I guess it can’t hurt to remove two screws for a bit more water capacity.
Thought everyone would like to see the latest in motor flushing. $250 on EBay!!

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[bob-d]

Hey Kerry, could you post a picture and possibly a parts list on your homemade flusher?
I would like to see how you mechanically attached the hose adapter to the plate. The only "welding" I am capable of is JB Welding.
Thanks Bob D

[kerry]

If you look at Mumbles pic above, mine look like the bottom flusher, but I used scrap 3/16" aluminum and a fitting like this, with a reducer and short pipe nipple. https://www.grainger.com/category/garde … kiZ1yzinke

If you have too many, AND not enough, you're a collector.

[bob-d]

Thanks Kerry, I now have the general idea, and should be able to piece something together.
It will be good to have when you don’t want to drag out the tank.

[kerry]

Can’t find my 18 flusher, this one is for a 1964 75 hp.

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If you have too many, AND not enough, you're a collector.

[labrador-guy]

Yes! this tread make sense! I have had new impellers that pumped poorly in the test tank. I always blamed it on gunk in the tank. Sometimes the water gets kinda heavy with goobers. Gonna try taking that cover off for sure! Thanks for sharing.

dale

[kerry]

Since this discussion seems to be about OMC’s, let me add to check the water intake screen. I usually check when removing the old water pump impeller, so it can be cleaned if needed. Most are OK, but I’ve seen some that made me wonder where the P.O. ran it, and a couple with rattle can paint jobs that were done without covering the screen.

If you have too many, AND not enough, you're a collector.

[outbdnut2]

I like these flushers and will make a couple of them, but – we must remember that running with a flusher attached will not let us know if the impeller is good since we are pressure feeding water in.
Dave

[Author]

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