Home Forum Ask A Member Two stuck flywheels

Viewing 8 posts - 11 through 18 (of 18 total)
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  • #17159
    jcrigan
    Participant

      If you’re going to heat the flywheel, take some parafin wax and melt a small amount on the shaft. It will creep down into the taper.

      #17160
      johnyrude200
      Participant

        I had one so stuck on a JW, that it took me on a 3 foot cheater bar holding the flywheel, and another person on ANOTHER 3 foot cheater bar, just to get the flywheel nut off. Let’s just say the lbs per square foot applied to that sucker was WAY above what it should have required to pull the flywheel nut. It had to have been 200 ft lbs+ holding the nut on.

        #17162
        mr-asa
        Participant

          Last one I had that was a PITA I tightened the puller as much as possible, smacked the side of the flywheel with a wooden mallet a couple times, rotated it 90 degrees, tightened as much as possible and hit it, kept doing that. Eventually it popped.
          By the end I was having to use my electric 1/2" impact to tighten the central pulling bolt.

          Hit the side of the flywheel, don’t hit the top. The vibrations from the impact are what you want.

          Also, the majority of other pullers that people are going to use are likely to be automotive designed. Way overbuilt for what you’ll normally see in outboards usage. I doubt you’ll see any deflection in them. There can be a problem with the bolt size not fitting in the slots for the automotive style pullers, but that’s easily fixed.

          #17167
          chris-p
          Participant
            quote Mr. Asa:

            Last one I had that was a PITA I tightened the puller as much as possible, smacked the side of the flywheel with a wooden mallet a couple times, rotated it 90 degrees, tightened as much as possible and hit it, kept doing that. Eventually it popped.
            By the end I was having to use my electric 1/2″ impact to tighten the central pulling bolt.

            Hit the side of the flywheel, don’t hit the top. The vibrations from the impact are what you want.

            Also, the majority of other pullers that people are going to use are likely to be automotive designed. Way overbuilt for what you’ll normally see in outboards usage. I doubt you’ll see any deflection in them. There can be a problem with the bolt size not fitting in the slots for the automotive style pullers, but that’s easily fixed.

            Actually, don’t hit the side of the flywheel either, nor the top. Just the puller bolt.

            #17170
            jerry-ahrens
            Participant

              US Member

              I’m with Don, get a hold of an OMC factory puller, they are superior to the cheaper ones. Steering wheel pullers will bend or deflect enough to not do the job. You can also use it to lift motors with the available lifting eye.

              #17185
              Mumbles
              Participant
                quote Mr. Asa:

                .

                Hit the side of the flywheel, don’t hit the top.

                .

                Not really the best idea as you can knock the magnetism right out of the magnets.

                #17188
                1-old-outboard
                Participant

                  I think if you have cracked or blew out the crank shaft , your method may be in error. I have never seen a crankshaft fail with the nut left on the crank even with the top after it has been loosened. As mentioned earlier place the nut back on crank, even with top of crankshaft. Then place the puller.

                  #17189
                  49hiawatha
                  Participant

                    I found a reference to the "knocker" that Chris P suggests on the old board w/pictures. I suggest you use Grade 8 bolts/nuts and it has worked slicker than grease for me…

                  Viewing 8 posts - 11 through 18 (of 18 total)
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