Home Forum Ask A Member Vintage Single OMC Line Fuel Tank

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  • #9685
    cron78
    Participant

      US Member - 2 Years

      So I’m working on a ’67 Erude 6 hp and now I need to set up a tank for it. I have a couple vintage 6 gal OMC steel tanks that I would like to use. Each tank has two male fuel connector pins (one fuel, one alignment..I think) with two smaller pins that push back into the connector head with a little push. Before I go spend the $39 or so it takes to buy a hose with connectors and pump bulb, can anyone tell me if the current off the shelf Attwood OMC fuel hose system motor connector will fit this old motor? The Attwood hose system has a different tank connector, so would it work if I replace the newer tank connector with a new female connector like fits onto the motor? Will the two smaller pins depress, assuming they need to for fuel to flow, when I connect a current female tank connector?

      Thanks for any advice,

      Cron

      #74282
      frankr
      Participant

        US Member

        Hm.m.m.m, I should know the answer to that one since I just bought a new Attwood hose a few months ago. It had a big round connector. I’m totally unfamiliar with what that’s all about. Anyhoo, I cut it off and replaced it with a conventional OMC connector and all is fine.

        You are correct, both of those pins must be pushed in. They are the fuel and air vent valves.

        #74293
        jerry-ahrens
        Participant

          US Member

          I’ve seen so many problems with aftermarket fuel connectors, that I won’t use them. I see so many people buy them, put them on their motor, then end up having to buy them again and replacing them with the good ones. I would find a good OEM set up if it were me. You may find one reasonable on Ebay? And for not a whole lot more in cost. I just went through this with a Yamaha recently…the customer bought a ( I wont say what brand) complete fuel line with primer bulb and connectors for his motor. The package said it was a direct replacement for his Yamaha engine. He got stuck out on the lake with a flat primer bulb, because the tank connector wouldn’t properly plug into his 6 gallon (OEM) Yamaha tank. After spending over 60 bucks on the aftermarket stuff, he ended up with a $79 Yamaha OEM line, with bulb and connectors, to fix the problem. I would get the BRP connectors with the yellow ends on them at the very least. The standard BRP (OMC) connectors will fit the motor as well as the tank. Don’t mean to step on any toes… Just my humble opinion..

          #74294
          jerry-ahrens
          Participant

            US Member

            Here is one example. I buy a few parts here once and a while. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-Johns … SwrBxasUKS

            #74324
            david-bartlett
            Participant
              quote Jerry Ahrens:

              I’ve seen so many problems with aftermarket fuel connectors, that I won’t use them. I see so many people buy them, put them on their motor, then end up having to buy them again and replacing them with the good ones. I would find a good OEM set up if it were me. You may find one reasonable on Ebay? And for not a whole lot more in cost. I just went through this with a Yamaha recently…the customer bought a ( I wont say what brand) complete fuel line with primer bulb and connectors for his motor. The package said it was a direct replacement for his Yamaha engine. He got stuck out on the lake with a flat primer bulb, because the tank connector wouldn’t properly plug into his 6 gallon (OEM) Yamaha tank. After spending over 60 bucks on the aftermarket stuff, he ended up with a $79 Yamaha OEM line, with bulb and connectors, to fix the problem. I would get the BRP connectors with the yellow ends on them at the very least. The standard BRP (OMC) connectors will fit the motor as well as the tank. Don’t mean to step on any toes… Just my humble opinion..

              Jerry,

              I totally agree. I chased my tail on fuel issues on my dads Yamaha 15hp 2-stroke. Went through a couple of those un-named aftermarket hoses with poor results. What finally fixed it was making my own fuel hose using YAMAHA fittings. And just to make it interesting, the Motor side and Tank side fittings are not interchangeable. Sometimes the simple things can be complicated.

              #74327
              PugetSoundBoater
              Participant
                quote Jerry Ahrens:

                Here is one example. I buy a few parts here once and a while. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-Johns … SwrBxasUKS

                I bought this exact same BRP hose and am totally pleased with it. Nice and flexible and amazingly it is real rubber. I will not deal with cheap non OEM fuel lines and connectors. I have had nothing but trouble attempting to use fuel hoses and tanks that came with motor purchases i’ve made.

                "Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
                Robbie Robertson

                #74328
                nj-boatbuilder57
                Participant

                  Interesting direction this thread is taking.

                  Barrel testing my engine last weekend, I noticed that there was pretty significant leakage at the tank/connector union. The tank is an older (mid-’60s) single-line tank in VGC, and the hose is homemade (hose from the NAPA store + bulb & fittings from a Marina). My connectors are NOT genuine OMC parts, but (I think) Sierra.

                  (FWIW, no leakage on the engine side…just at the tank)

                  Now, it wasn’t a ton of leakage….it’s not like I’m spurting fuel all over, but there is a noticeable wet seepage of gas all over the tank.

                  I wonder if a genuine OMC connector would help. Truthfully, I pretty much figured that, packaging aside, they’re all being [sadly] pumped out of the same Chinese factory, and the issue isn’t really branding, as much as it’s the simple lack of QC. Am I wrong?

                  #74331
                  chinewalker
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    NJ – Chances are your tank’s vent or fuel valve is leaking. Those two pins operate valves – one lets fuel out, one lets air in when the fuel connector is snapped in place. If your tank leaks, then it’s likely that the o-rings that the pins seat on are worn or warped due to age, fuel deterioration, etc. Costs about $15 and 15 minutes to repair them. If needed, I think I have the part numbers saved somewhere…

                    #74332
                    nj-boatbuilder57
                    Participant

                      Interesting. No, I never rebuilt the tank. I knew that 2-hose tanks required service & maintenance, but I didn’t realize the one-hose tanks did, too. Stands to reason, though…

                      I’ll check into it & see what’s what. I have the parts book & numbers, so that should steer me in the right direction.

                      Thanks!

                      #74341
                      jerry-ahrens
                      Participant

                        US Member
                        quote NJ-boatbuilder57:

                        Interesting direction this thread is taking.

                        Barrel testing my engine last weekend, I noticed that there was pretty significant leakage at the tank/connector union. The tank is an older (mid-’60s) single-line tank in VGC, and the hose is homemade (hose from the NAPA store + bulb & fittings from a Marina). My connectors are NOT genuine OMC parts, but (I think) Sierra.

                        (FWIW, no leakage on the engine side…just at the tank)

                        Now, it wasn’t a ton of leakage….it’s not like I’m spurting fuel all over, but there is a noticeable wet seepage of gas all over the tank.

                        I wonder if a genuine OMC connector would help. Truthfully, I pretty much figured that, packaging aside, they’re all being [sadly] pumped out of the same Chinese factory, and the issue isn’t really branding, as much as it’s the simple lack of QC. Am I wrong?

                        I just checked the OEM connectors packaging.. they are made in the USA. Part # 775640 for the 5/16th barb and 775641 if you want the one with a 3/8 barb. If you have Sierra, I would toss em. FYI, if either connector is weeping fuel, you will also have a vacuum leak in the suction side of the fuel system. This can cause some weird running issues.

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