Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 1956 Johnson Javelin “Barn Find” – Need Basic Info to Get Started
- This topic has 21 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 20 hours, 36 minutes ago by
RICHARD A. WHITE.
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April 12, 2026 at 8:07 pm #315188
From what I could tell from
Model number, RJE-18, it’s a 1956 30HP.Appreciate if somebody could confirm
It’s a six volt system. I read somewhere
That 12 volt started in 1957Also, my understanding is that some of the 6 volt outboards had a positive ground. How can I determine if this is the case for me?
Manuals, etc. would very helpful.
Lastly, I am in need of the chrome faceplate which I know is a hard to find item but hope springs eternal….
Thx
April 13, 2026 at 7:35 am #315246Can be converted to 12v.. Need 1957 starter bracket out of the 1957 35hp…… direct bolt up.
Also need to change the choke solenoid to a 12 volt as well… that will give you electric choke…
The positive cable goes to the starter, negative goes to ground on the starter bracket.I have 2 of the non Javelin models….
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April 13, 2026 at 8:10 am #315250Richard,
newbie at this (you already figured this out)
are battery cables set up this way for both 6 or 12 volt?
April 13, 2026 at 8:16 am #315252to service oldies download yourself a copy of this FREE johnson bible it covers all you need … comes in red or white 🙂
store on your PC or print it locally double sided pages and spring bound. Some copy shops can do this for you… well worth the price
https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf
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April 13, 2026 at 8:39 am #315257sent you a check list but…….Poofed again !! 🙁
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April 13, 2026 at 8:41 am #315260How much outboard experience have you had? Finding one of those red manuals will be your best guide for sure. Do you have all the boat wiring/harness for the engine? It will be tough to make the electric starting work without the boat wiring/junction box.
The next thing to do is check the basics. Check compression, then drain/inspect the gear lube. There are two drain fill screws on the gearcase, one above the anti ventilation plate, and the other screw is underneath the gearcase snout towards the front. Good oil will probably be dark in color. “Milkly colored” lube is not a big concern, a slight water leak. Raw water is a big problem, as is not oil coming out at all! Do not remove that little phillips head screw down there, the inner shift linkage will come apart internally.
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April 13, 2026 at 8:50 am #315261check compression before spending to much money. if compression is to low it may indicate a lost cause or a jewel.
these oldies are all the same and need some minimum investments (FW puller, coils wires, condensers, gear oil, points(maybe) etc….
think around $150 …great hobby (addictive) and no more expensive than golf! 🙂
Post your compression findings here for comments or.. recommendations
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April 13, 2026 at 9:59 am #315275Parts manual attached.
1956-Johnson-30HP-RD18-RD18E-RD18C-Parts
Prepare to be boarded!
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April 13, 2026 at 10:02 am #315277Richard,
newbie at this (you already figured this out)
are battery cables set up this way for both 6 or 12 volt?
The cables do not care…BUT, depending on the distance from your battery to the motor, may change the gage wire needed to operate…
As for wiring…easy peasy..12v red from battery to starter solenoid, it can be mounted in the junction box, OR under the hood of the motor…it does not care. Then take second red, positive, to the lug on the side of the starter.
Negative, black, from the battery to the lower mounting bolt of the starter bracket.1 white wire from the battery to a momentary on off push button switch, then a white wire from the other side of the switch to the “HOT” side of the starter solenoid, the 12 volt solenoid should have 4 terminals, 2 large, battery connections, the smaller 2 one is for the white wire, “HOT” and the other needs to go to ground.
So if you do the electric choke, one wire from the battery to a second push button switch, then from the other terminal of that switch to the terminal on the choke solenoid.
To start, push the choke button in and hit the start button, engine should start but it WILL run a bit rough and may die… so you may have to quickly push the choke button in a time or 2 while it first starts to run and then the motor should settle down…
Done
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April 13, 2026 at 10:13 am #315255things to check…
Compression FIRST !!! in case the engine is RIP before you spend $$$$$$ to refurbish… publish findings here!
- Ignition coils…. usually all cracked up and need replacement.. not a big deal
- ignition wires… usually old in need of resh new 7mm copper strand wires ( no carbon stuff)
- condensers… usually gone bad after all these years. can be tested but…you need capacitance meter yet they can only be truly tested using a hight voltage source …see links provided below
- Gear case oil needs inspection and replacement ( look for water ) use new nylon washers when closing up
- Points… usually a clean up will get you going (polish with 150 grit strip of paper and rinse with carb cleaner
- suggest you get familiar if all this stuff is new to you (see Johnson manual) see Leroys section on magnetos etc…carbs
https://www.leeroysramblings.com/
https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part1_Condenser_Construction_Failure_Modes.pdf
https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part3_Sizing_Condensers_Correctly.pdf
https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part4_Repairing_Broken_Condensers.pdf
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